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If you've ever been to the Khmer architectural wonders at Angkor Wat in Cambodia, you'll know that you need to be super-organised to see the different sites arrayed near the Tonle Sap lake.
You'll be up early for sunrise at Angkor Wat, and after the journey to the Bayon at Angkor Thom, it's onto temples further afield by bicycle or tuk tuk. New research by the Greater Angkor Project at the University of Sydney in Australia has now revealed that the size of the urban sprawl surrounding the temple at Angkor Wat is actually ten times larger than previously thought. The combination of aerial photography, on the ground research, and radar has revealed that the ancient conurbation covered nearly 3000 sq km. Almost 100 new temple sites have been discovered, and it's now estimated the overall population of the area may have topped one million between the 9th and 16th centuries.
Mind you, if you've visited the rapidly expanding town of Siem Reap recently, you may think that a similar number is sometimes approached during the tourist season.
Thanks to dragon caiman on Flickr for the great shot of monks at Angkor Wat.
The first time I tried to ride a motorbike "sidesaddle," I almost fell off. Two months later, and I was whizzing around S.E. Asia on the back of motorbikes, legs to one side, like I'd been doing it my whole life. No helmet. Random driver. I loved the surprise expressed by locals when they saw me in my skirt, riding along sideways like it was nothing. I knew it was dumb, but everyone else was doing it so I figured it was okay. But my instinct influenced me just enough to keep me from bragging to my mother, who would not have been impressed.
Travelers tend to feel invincible when abroad. I know I performed stunts I would never do back home, like riding on the edge of an open truck bed for four hours on a dirt road in Cambodia. When I tried to pull the same trick in Seattle (across a parking lot, mind you) my parents refused to drive one more foot until I was back in the cab.
In retrospect, maybe I was lucky I was never in an accident. I certainly witnessed a few. A friend in the Peace Corps was not allowed to ride motorbikes because, he said, motorbike accidents are the largest cause of Peace Corps deaths. USA today reports that motor vehicle crashes are the leading cause of death for traveling Americans. The article cites many reasons, including substandard roads, poor or nonexistent signs, and lax law enforcement. And accidents are not isolated to developing countries, either. About 15% of traveler fatalities occur in high-income countries.
Personally, I found riding sidesaddle on the back of a motorbike much easier than trying to drive on the left side of the road in Ireland. But maybe next time I'm in Asia I'll forgo the motorbike in favor of a taxicab -- and a seatbelt.
It's been far too long since we've posted about bizarre foreign street food here at Gadling and therefore I was pleased to discover a cool little video over on the Telegraph (UK) website.
Telegraph online editor Francisca Kellett was traveling through northern Cambodia when she got wind of the local specialty: fried spiders. Apparently locals took to eating spiders during the brutal Khmer Rouge regime when little food was available. Over time, this emergency sustenance has actually become a well-loved treat in Cambodia and locals merrily consume the spiders as though they are candy.
Like any travel reporter worth their salt, Kellett braved up and plucked the legs from one of these deep-fried beasts and popped it into her mouth. Crunchy and garlicky were the first words out of her mouth. But, see for yourself by clicking there. Mmm.....
Timen Swijtink recently launched an excellent website called in my All Stars, a site dedicated to exploring "experience traveling."
During the summer of 2006, Swijtink spent 10 weeks "experience traveling" through Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos, and Thailand. Over the past 2 months, he's been sorting through the 6000 photos he took and assembling them into a book. Unfortunately, he only printed 3 copies of the book -- one for his mom; one for showing people; and one for posterity. For the rest of us, Swijtink has made his book available for free in PDF format.
Swijtink's book is an excellent cultural immersion in a part of the world that's still somewhat mysterious. Filled with his 500 best images of people, sunsets, street vendors, cityscapes, and vistas, the book is an extraordinary look at a part of the world many people have yet to visit. I highly recommend downloading and looking through the book. It's incredible.
There ought to be a whole photo gallery featuring nothing but monks using modern technology. I can't tell you the number of times someone thought it necessary to snap a photo of a monk talking on a cell phone and then share it with the world. This is the first I've seen, however, of monks shooting themselves with a camera. What really makes the photo, however, is the wonderful orange of their tunics contrasting against the misty browns of Angkor Wat. The contrast is so startling it looks as though they've been artificially dropped into the photograph. I love it.
Congrats go out once again to LadyExpat who photographed monks photographing themselves and did a fantastic job of it.
I'm in a video mood today. I spent the last hour or so going through YouTube and rounding up some of the best videos of bizarre traffic situations from around the world. And YouTube has a ton, let me tell you. Many of the clips brought back teeth-rattling memories from my recent trip to India, and I found myself flashing back to those times I traveled by rickshaw, unsure of whether or not I would arrive to my destination in one piece. I did, luckily, but not without some mental scarring.
With that, I give you the five fabulous videos, in no particular order:
Here's a good night shot of Cairo traffic. No sort of rules -- just use the horn as much as possible. I like it.
Erik is usually the one to spread word on panos worth checking out and while I probably should have let him do the honors for this set found on The World is Not Flat (TWINF), I couldn't resist pointing you to them myself. This shot taken on a rooftop in Singapore grabbed me because of the lime green color lining the building in the background along with the reds, lighter left side and darker right. The bottom photo taken at Angkor Wat speaks for itself - incredible. Other breathtaking shots from New Zealand, India, Thailand, Laos, Hong Kong, Portugal, Spain and Utah are all there to go awe over. Go sit in awe now. Go and wish you had been there too.
Cool photo of a female road worker in Cambodia. But I have to wonder: what's she hiding in that Khmer headscarf? Looks like a melon or something. Maybe for lunch. Seriously, though, a lovely shot from LadyExpat.
I've never been a big fan of bicycling, but the few times I've done it while traveling have been extraordinarily rewarding.
No other form of transport allows you to thoroughly immerse yourself into the heart of the countryside, except perhaps walking, which simply takes far too long to cover any sort of decent distance.
Ireland and Vietnam are two places I did bike rentals for the day that took me off the beaten path and into areas less frequented by tourists. I remember coming across a small school down some dirt road in Vietnam where, at first sight of me, some 50 schoolchildren came racing out of the yard and immediately surrounded me, jumping and screaming excitedly as though I had just landed from Mars.
Bill Cashmore, writing for The Telegraph, enjoyed similar experiences while on a week-long bike tour of Cambodia. The 45-year old managed 250 miles through the Cambodian countryside, peddling past small villages and farmers, indulging in local foods, and otherwise taking in the very best Cambodia has to offer those who don't whisk past it on a tourist bus.
World Heritage Sites are, by definition, fantastic places to visit. But is this true of all of them?
Sure, the honored temples, pagodas, natural landscapes, and medieval towns all have something special to offer; otherwise they wouldn't be on the list. But what about the negative aspects, the things never mentioned by UNESCO?
The fine folks at National Geographic Traveler have come up with their own rating system to honor the very best and very worst World Heritage Sites on this planet based upon "sustainable tourism."
National Geographic actively hosts the Center for Sustainable Destinations which researches the impact of tourism upon popular tourist sites. For example, toward the bottom of the most recent scorecard of 94 World Heritage Sites researched by the group is the Potala Palace in Tibet. The Palace scored only 46 out of 100 possible points due to the impact of mass tourism, Chinese attempts to diffuse the Tibetan culture, and "souvenir shops replacing the religious articles market." Dead last is Kathmandu Valley in Nepal where political strife, concrete buildings, and pollution is quickly destroying the ancient heritage of this fantastic area.
It is truly sad reading through the bottom of the list and the litany of problems facing so many of the world's great destinations. The temples of Angkor, Cambodia, for example, are threatened by a rash of new tourist hotels which consume so much water that the water table has lowered and is weakening the foundations of the temple.
The good news is that a number of destinations are weathering the tourist onslaught with strength and vigor. Number one on the list with 87 points is the west fjords of Norway, followed up by Spain's Alhambra. Both treasures are well protected and well managed by the local communities in which they lie. They currently face little threat and healthy longevity--at least for the time being.
Be sure to pop on over to National Geographic Traveler and check out the list. This is one of the better World Heritage Site summations I've seen in a long time, and one which will motivate, inspire, and sadly, even depress.
If you can get a hold of the print edition (November/December 2006) take a moment to mull over the depressing cover photo of tourists in loud clothing and sun hats scaling the ancient stairs of Angkor. One glance and you'll understand why it has fared so poorly in the National Geographic Traveler report.
No matter how cliche this photo is (and I'm sorry, it's cliche...this near exact shot must be in the collection of every tourist who's ever been to Angkor), I still like it.
I like the fact it's in black and white and I like that the shooter, one RW007, had the patience to at least wait until one of these little scooter guys, rolled through the frame. The shot is, of course, Angkor's famous south gate, and having savored Angkor's jaw-dropping size and beauty myself, I couldn't resist choosing this photo from the Gadling Flickr site.
Today's Photo of the Day comes to us from Cambodia where it's possible to buy grasshoppers by the pound for all sorts of delicious, mouth watering recipes--or, just as a quick snack between meals. Mmmm...
Thanks to HappyWanderer01 for contributing this tasty shot to our Gadling Photo Pool. We hope you had the opportunity to chow down on some of these little jumpers after taking their photo.
I'm on a bit of a Southeast Asia kick today...so why stop. I posted about audio tours in Thailand, specifically Bangkok, but here is a site for the more logistically-minded. Those interested in Southeast Asia, in particular Thailand, Laos and Cambodia, will be very interested in this site called Travelfish. The site has very specific, traveler-scribed guides to these places, providing information on the best unspoit beaches, the best food, where to go in Laos to find "mist shrouded Lao mountains" and "luxury lodges for a hilltribe trek". In some ways, I actually think the site is better than Lonely Planet, because for each place they actually provide listings and links to their recommendations. The site is well organized, well designed and chock full of good information. Worth a look.
I keep finding myself revisiting the photos posted by Irish Guy on our Gadling Flickr Pool. It looks like he is currently (?) in Cambodia and that's where this fantastic shot was taken. I love the lonely red ice chest; flotsam from the modern age that makes this shot truly anachronistic.
If you've ever traveled to a Third World country,
you've seen the odd site of an overloaded vehicle. I know I have. In India, I saw a truck very much like the one in
this picture, loaded with logs and branches such that I was sure the vehicle would soon topple over .Amazingly, it
didn't but kept right on chugging along down the street. In Cambodia, I saw a family riding a motorcycle. A family of
six. The kids hung off each side, a baby was on the handlebars and the mom and two kids sat on the seat. Well, here's a hilarious gallery found via Boing Boing of photos that will make you gasp and laugh at the ingenuity and ambition
of the human race. We advise you not to try this at home.