Erdem
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, June 15, 2010
By Tim Blanks
Aiming squarely at America, his biggest market, Erdem Moralioglu made versatility the heart of his resort collection. He imagined his outfits broken down and recombined to create "a beautiful, logical uniform." Winningly straightforward drop-waisted shifts, sleeveless poplin tops, and shirtdresses were center stage. They reminded the designer of the sixties (Samantha Stevens in her subdivision, perhaps), but he gave them an edge with murky, ominous prints that abstracted and combined flowers and static electricity. "Gothic suburban?" he offered with a dry laugh.Moralioglu also wanted to emphasize seasonlessness and "occasionlessness." He saw everything—even the little summer shorts—making an easy transition from a lunch date to a night at the opera. As for his newly introduced overcoats, one style in black lace and another lavishly embroidered version (he called it Klimt) would elevate any outfit. But they also underscored that, versatility or not, there's always a sumptuously detailed precision to Moralioglu's proposals. That shirtdress, for instance, was hand-embroidered at cuff and bodice. A cotton lace tee had organza cuffs, a silk print shirt was over-embroidered with flowers, and a cocktail dress in royal blue silk twill came laboriously hand-worked with tiny packets of black beads. All were reminders that the Erdem woman is a rara avis, like a Hitchcock blonde. (Grace Kelly in Erdem? You know it makes sense.) His talent is to add real, sensual life to the idea, the truest testament to which might be the way the clothes take on so much dimension once they're fitted on a woman's body.
see all designers ›
Resort 2011
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
O
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
3.1 Phillip Lim -
A
Acne ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alexander McQueen Alexander Wang Alice + Olivia Anna Sui Antonio Berardi -
B
Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Barbara Tfank BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Brian Reyes Burberry Prorsum -
C
-
D
Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dsquared² -
E
Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston -
F
Francesco Scognamiglio -
G
Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
H
Haider Ackermann Hanii Y Helmut Lang Hervé Léger by Max Azria -
I
Isaac Mizrahi -
J
J. Mendel Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jonathan Saunders Juan Carlos Obando Julien Macdonald Just Cavalli -
K
Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz -
L
Lanvin Lela Rose Louis Vuitton Luca Luca -
M
Malandrino Marc by Marc Jacobs Marchesa Marc Jacobs Marni Matthew Williamson Max Azria MaxMara Michael Angel Michael Kors Milly Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino Moschino Cheap & Chic -
N
Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
O
Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta -
P
Peter Jensen Philosophy Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
R
Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Rebecca Taylor Reed Krakoff Reem Acra Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Roberto Cavalli Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail -
S
Salvatore Ferragamo Sonia Rykiel Stella McCartney Suno -
T
Temperley London Thakoon The Row Tibi Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE -
U
United Bamboo -
V
Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Versace Viktor & Rolf Vionnet VPL -
Y
Yigal Azrouël Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo