Versace
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, June 18, 2010
By Tim Blanks
If the original purpose of a Resort collection was something to make you want to play, Donatella Versace gave her customers clothes that might make them want to playact. There was a vibrant early sixties sex-bomb pulse to many of the looks (yes, that orange cocktail dress would live on Christina Hendricks). The clothes had a sleek, kittenish spirit with all the oomph and optimism of Pop art before the decade went to pot. The Lichtenstein dot was the key motif, lined up in various sizes to trick the eye and define the body, sometimes in combination with strips of the kind of ribbon you might have found in Donatella's mother's sewing box. That proper little retro echo resonated in a sundress and jackets in safari and Panama styles—imagine them trimmed and cropped for a sixties spy girl, and the image comes into focus. Even more so with an abbreviated pink trench. If only the girl from U.N.C.L.E. had access to such finery.Versace wanted an emphasis on ease. Though the silhouette was scuba-streamlined and short, stretch fabrics let the body move, as in the white leather safari dress, which had a sort of body gusseting in a combination of cotton and nylon. But it was ultimately the color scheme that gave the collection its kick. Orange, pink, mint, pistachio, and lilac run in the Versace veins. Cute accessory alert: a knapsack looky-likey that broke down into four bags, just perfect for mum, teen, and two tweens. Now that's home economy.
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Resort 2011
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Acne ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alexander McQueen Alexander Wang Alice + Olivia Anna Sui Antonio Berardi -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Barbara Tfank BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Brian Reyes Burberry Prorsum -
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Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dsquared˛ -
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Elie Tahari Elise Řverland Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston -
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Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hanii Y Helmut Lang Hervé Léger by Max Azria -
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Isaac Mizrahi -
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J. Mendel Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jonathan Saunders Juan Carlos Obando Julien Macdonald Just Cavalli -
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Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz -
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Lanvin Lela Rose Louis Vuitton Luca Luca -
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Malandrino Marc by Marc Jacobs Marchesa Marc Jacobs Marni Matthew Williamson Max Azria MaxMara Michael Angel Michael Kors Milly Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino Moschino Cheap & Chic -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta -
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Peter Jensen Philosophy Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Rebecca Taylor Reed Krakoff Reem Acra Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Roberto Cavalli Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sonia Rykiel Stella McCartney Suno -
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Temperley London Thakoon The Row Tibi Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE -
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United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Versace Viktor & Rolf Vionnet VPL -
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Yigal Azrouël Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo