Matthew Williamson
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, June 15, 2010
By Matthew Schneier
Resort is the season when you'd expect to find Matthew Williamson at his most Williamsonian. The tropical colors, the eye-popping prints, a caftan or two—the MW oeuvre seems fairly made for those who've got it made in the shade. So it was a surprise to enter Williamson's Resort presentation and find it titled the metropolitan-sounding Mechanical Nature. Whither the fluttering beachwear?As it turns out, to a wholly separate collection Williamson's calling Escape, which launches in tandem with Resort. Giving the upper-deck set its own line has given the designer a chance to embrace the label's more urban side. Hence Resort's pleated, jodhpur-style trousers in navy, black, and taupe; washed napa leather jackets; and structured minidresses. (The lattermost aren't for the office, but the working months have off-hours, too.) For holiday events, a few floor-sweepers riffed on the ruched, bandage-style dress. They were about as cruise deck as it got, though the palette—in what Williamson called coral, poppy, and fluoro lime—stayed true to the house motifs. And of course, there'll never be a season without prints. Here they were what the designer called a "mechanized palm" print (sort of resembling a twisting helix of industrial parts), a geological agate print, and a toucan print. This last, in lurid orange and green, was the most resort-y of Resort—and as such, felt the most out of place. It was a false note in an otherwise strong showing.
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Resort 2011
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Barbara Tfank BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Brian Reyes Burberry Prorsum -
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Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dsquared˛ -
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Elie Tahari Elise Řverland Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston -
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Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hanii Y Helmut Lang Hervé Léger by Max Azria -
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Isaac Mizrahi -
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J. Mendel Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jonathan Saunders Juan Carlos Obando Julien Macdonald Just Cavalli -
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Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz -
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Lanvin Lela Rose Louis Vuitton Luca Luca -
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Malandrino Marc by Marc Jacobs Marchesa Marc Jacobs Marni Matthew Williamson Max Azria MaxMara Michael Angel Michael Kors Milly Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino Moschino Cheap & Chic -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sonia Rykiel Stella McCartney Suno -
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Temperley London Thakoon The Row Tibi Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE -
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United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Versace Viktor & Rolf Vionnet VPL -
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Yigal Azrouël Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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