Giorgio Armani
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, June 21, 2010
By Tim Blanks
Giorgio Armani's Resort collection drew together three distinct threads of his career: the combination of masculine and feminine elements, the architecture of haute couture, and the influence of 1930's-style movie star glamour. He long ago reconstructed the fundamentals of men's fashion with his women's suits, as he did with a pinstriped version in navy linen here. This season, he gave the jackets a new proportion: slightly shorter with a built-out shoulder. A man's necktie was abstracted as a trompe l'oeil detail. But there was nothing abstract about the couture spirit that was evident in the structure of a mesh jacket with a waistline that flared into a trumpet shape, or a cocktail dress with a huge grosgrain bow at the back.Almost every look had some grosgrain, like the French cuffs that dressed up a long-sleeved tee, or the lining of a white satin jacket, or the waistcoat under Armani's version of Le Smoking. That kind of detailing not only added a dose of the haute Hollywood glamour that shaped young Giorgio's sensibility, but it also underscored the fact that this Resort collection wasn't the kind of free and easy garb you'd see at any old casual holiday affair. The furled lapels of one black jacket looked like something from a Horst photograph. Another, in a lacquered intrecciato, would have done Dietrich justice.
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Resort 2011
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Acne ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alexander McQueen Alexander Wang Alice + Olivia Anna Sui Antonio Berardi -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Barbara Tfank BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Brian Reyes Burberry Prorsum -
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Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dsquared˛ -
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Elie Tahari Elise Řverland Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston -
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Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hanii Y Helmut Lang Hervé Léger by Max Azria -
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Isaac Mizrahi -
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J. Mendel Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jonathan Saunders Juan Carlos Obando Julien Macdonald Just Cavalli -
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Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz -
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Lanvin Lela Rose Louis Vuitton Luca Luca -
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Malandrino Marc by Marc Jacobs Marchesa Marc Jacobs Marni Matthew Williamson Max Azria MaxMara Michael Angel Michael Kors Milly Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino Moschino Cheap & Chic -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta -
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Peter Jensen Philosophy Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Rebecca Taylor Reed Krakoff Reem Acra Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Roberto Cavalli Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sonia Rykiel Stella McCartney Suno -
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Temperley London Thakoon The Row Tibi Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE -
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United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Versace Viktor & Rolf Vionnet VPL -
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Yigal Azrouël Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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