Donna Karan
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, June 4, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
Donna Karan switched it up for Resort, opting for a runway show rather than the showroom appointments she usually does. The more formal setting suited the white, black, navy, and silver clothes, nearly all of which were designed for after dark. "Holiday belongs to the night," her program notes declared. She opened with a satin-wool tuxedo jacket over a slinky chain-mail halter top and a stretch pencil skirt that established the masculine-feminine point-counterpoint rhythm of the collection. Pantsuits had the soft, slouchy ease of pajamas—one robelike jacket even had a hood—while a silk crepe jumpsuit came strictly tailored on top and loose and flowing below the waist.Her signature goddess dresses, on the other hand, were all woman. Deeply cowled, one-shouldered, in satin jersey or liquid lamé, knee-length and to-the-floor, Karan did them every which way. Several look destined for the red carpet (perhaps she'll wear one herself to the CFDA Awards next week, where she's nominated for Designer of the Year), but the most eye-catching was pieced together from swathes of ivory, royal blue, and platinum. A few day looks with the same sort of pop would've been welcome additions.
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Resort 2011
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Acne ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alexander McQueen Alexander Wang Alice + Olivia Anna Sui Antonio Berardi -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Barbara Tfank BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Brian Reyes Burberry Prorsum -
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Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dsquared˛ -
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Elie Tahari Elise Řverland Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston -
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Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hanii Y Helmut Lang Hervé Léger by Max Azria -
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Isaac Mizrahi -
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J. Mendel Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jonathan Saunders Juan Carlos Obando Julien Macdonald Just Cavalli -
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Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz -
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Lanvin Lela Rose Louis Vuitton Luca Luca -
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Malandrino Marc by Marc Jacobs Marchesa Marc Jacobs Marni Matthew Williamson Max Azria MaxMara Michael Angel Michael Kors Milly Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino Moschino Cheap & Chic -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta -
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Peter Jensen Philosophy Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Rebecca Taylor Reed Krakoff Reem Acra Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Roberto Cavalli Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sonia Rykiel Stella McCartney Suno -
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Temperley London Thakoon The Row Tibi Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE -
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United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Versace Viktor & Rolf Vionnet VPL -
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Yigal Azrouël Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo