Junya Watanabe
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, June 25, 2010
By Tim Blanks
"They're clothes I want to wear next summer," explained Junya Watanabe after a nautically themed show that was as direct as anything he's offered before. The prospect of going boating must make him very happy indeed, because the soundtrack was the kind of bubbly jazz funk that underscored good times in bygone days. It was that ideal weekend moment that Watanabe's holidaywear evoked: sailing away in a mackintosh jacket in a jaunty shade of red or yellow, a Breton striped knit, and a flat cap. Or perhaps you'll opt for a more classic navy parka and sailor sweater.This designer has always been remarkably good at fetishizing practical western clothing, serving it back to us in ways that make it seem almost inexplicably irresistible. (His huntin', shootin', and fishin' collection, for example.) This time, that alien tug was missing, perhaps because what we saw was just what we got: crisp, fresh, summery, suburban clothes in preppy shades of navy, sky blue, and pink, not to mention stripes. Lots of stripes. It felt so familiar that there was no Watanabe frisson—unless, of course, you count as a thrill the vision of him settling behind the tiller for a day of tacking and jibing.
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Spring 2011 Menswear
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Acne Adam Kimmel Agnès B. Alexander McQueen Alexis Mabille Ann Demeulemeester -
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Balenciaga Bottega Veneta Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Christophe Lemaire Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Dior Homme Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Dunhill -
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Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
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Gianfranco Ferré Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hermès -
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Iceberg Issey Miyake -
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Jean Paul Gaultier Jil Sander John Galliano John Varvatos Junya Watanabe -
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Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
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Lanvin Louis Vuitton -
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Marni Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moschino -
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Neil Barrett -
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Paul Smith Prada Pringle of Scotland -
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Raf Simons Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli -
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Salvatore Ferragamo -
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Thom Browne Trussardi 1911 -
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Umit Benan -
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Versace Viktor & Rolf -
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Walter Van Beirendonck -
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Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Z Zegna
More MENSWEAR SPRING 2011
- Acne
- Agnès B.
- Balenciaga
- Dunhill
- Lanvin
- Paul Smith
- Thom Browne
- Ann Demeulemeester
- Dior Homme
- Hermès
- Kenzo
- Miharayasuhiro
- Raf Simons