Kris Van Assche
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, June 25, 2010
By Tim Blanks
He was kidding when he said he'd called his 12th collection Ashes as a pun on his name. What Kris Van Assche really had in mind was the dust on a working man's hands and clothes at the end of the day. Such a humble notion was reflected in pieces that had the plainness of a janitorial uniform, and a backdrop that looked like nothing so much as the biggest roll of toilet paper in the world. Offered in black and gray, the clothes had the appropriate utilitarian color scheme. Toward the end, they came blotched with ink or paint, as if there'd been an accident in the work closet. And they were accessorized with apronlike add-ons and pouches, along with saddle and messenger bags of all sizes that also emphasized utility.In many of his collections until now, Van Assche has shown himself to be a dyed-in-the-wool romantic. Here, he injected some poetry into his working man's uniform with sheer fabrics, pants that tied in a big bow, and some après-work black leather.
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Spring 2011 Menswear
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Acne Adam Kimmel Agnès B. Alexander McQueen Alexis Mabille Ann Demeulemeester -
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Balenciaga Bottega Veneta Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Christophe Lemaire Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Dior Homme Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Dunhill -
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Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
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Gianfranco Ferré Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hermès -
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Iceberg Issey Miyake -
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Jean Paul Gaultier Jil Sander John Galliano John Varvatos Junya Watanabe -
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Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
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Lanvin Louis Vuitton -
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Marni Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moschino -
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Neil Barrett -
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Paul Smith Prada Pringle of Scotland -
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Raf Simons Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli -
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Salvatore Ferragamo -
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Thom Browne Trussardi 1911 -
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Umit Benan -
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Versace Viktor & Rolf -
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Walter Van Beirendonck -
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Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Z Zegna
More MENSWEAR SPRING 2011
- Acne
- Agnès B.
- Balenciaga
- Dunhill
- Lanvin
- Paul Smith
- Thom Browne
- Ann Demeulemeester
- Dior Homme
- Hermès
- Kenzo
- Miharayasuhiro
- Raf Simons