Hervé Léger by Max Azria
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 14, 2010
By Meenal Mistry
Anyone who attended Max and Lubov Azria's two other shows—Max Azria and BCBG Max Azria—earlier this week must have been grateful today that the designing couple didn't try for a stripped-down, minimalist trifecta with Hervé Léger. (That stuff is pretty, but it has its limits.)Instead, the Azrias poured the cream and pink world of lingerie, lace, and corseting into the strict framework of their bandage dress. The vision had strains of a modern-day Marie Antoinette, the reference drummed into your head by Siouxsie and the Banshees' "Hong Kong Garden" from Sofia Coppola's film repeating on the soundtrack. It was also overt on the runway: There were abbreviated bustle dresses with modern panniers, and the last grouping featured ribbon-woven corsets—new ground for this label.
The bondage nature of the bandage dress is already a naughty enough foil to the froth of the Queen of Fashion, but that element was furthered in lasered leather and printed rubber (both with lace motifs) and tiny grommets that traced the seaming on body-hugging shifts. It's not easy to maintain a sense of newness in a label with such strict parameters, but the Azrias managed it nicely with this collection.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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ADAM A Détacher Alexander Wang Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice + Olivia Altuzarra Anna Sui Araks -
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Badgley Mischka Band of Outsiders Barbara Tfank BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bensoni Betsey Johnson Betty Jackson Bibhu Mohapatra Bill Blass -
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Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant -
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Edun Elie Tahari Elise Řverland Erin Fetherston -
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Frank Tell -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Gary Graham Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star -
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Halston Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland -
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Imitation Isaac Mizrahi -
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J. Mendel Jason Wu Jen Kao Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jeremy Scott Jill Stuart Juan Carlos Obando Julian Louie -
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Karen Walker Kimberly Ovitz -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lela Rose Louise Gray Luca Luca Lyn Devon -
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Malandrino Mandy Coon Marc by Marc Jacobs Marchesa Marc Jacobs Matthew Ames Max Azria Michael Angel Michael Kors Milly Monique Lhuillier Mulberry -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nicholas K Nicole Miller -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy RAD by Rad Hourani Rad Hourani Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Rebecca Minkoff Rebecca Taylor Reed Krakoff Reem Acra Richard Chai Love Rodarte Ruffian -
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Sachin + Babi Sass & Bide Sophie Theallet Stćrk Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Temperley London Tess Giberson Thakoon Theyskens' Theory Threeasfour Tibi Timo Weiland Tommy Hilfiger Tory Burch Tracy Reese TRIAS TSE Twenty8Twelve -
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Unique United Bamboo -
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Vena Cava Vera Wang Victoria Beckham Vivienne Tam VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël -
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Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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