Gary Graham
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 11, 2010
By Alison Baenen
Gary Graham has an extensive trove of vintage clothes he mines for inspiration, and this season a pair of delicate, finely wrought jackets from perhaps a hundred years ago were it. But while Graham's designs always hew to the ethos of an earlier era, he's still keenly aware of what his customer wants to wear in the here and now.For Spring, what she wants is a little more polish. Graham envisioned a city girl who'd fled for greener pastures, literally, and had to adjust her urban wardrobe accordingly. An exquisitely hand-beaded bolero looked like it had been sheared off at the bottom, and an embroidered dress—one of the strongest looks—was inspired by a chair he found abandoned in the woods. On the original needlepoint cushion, the pattern was still visible but the forest's sticks and leaves had worked their way into the frame. On the sheer organza dress, an abstract pine-needle print worked its way into dense floral embroidery that climbed up the bodice.
What constitutes more polish, though, is relative. Graham likes to play with volume through layering, and the slips and leggings worn under some skirts gave the impression—intentionally? unintentionally?—that the skirts' linings were slowly coming undone. Decidedly substantial was Graham's first true shoe collection. Wedged and heeled ankle boots in dark olive, red, and tan grounded the dreamy, old-soul clothes. "It's precious," the designer said a few days before his presentation, "but not precious at all."
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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ADAM A Détacher Alexander Wang Alexandre Herchcovitch Altuzarra Araks -
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Badgley Mischka Band of Outsiders Barbara Tfank BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bensoni Betsey Johnson -
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Carlos Miele Carolina Herrera Charlotte Ronson Chris Benz Christian Cota Christian Siriano Costello Tagliapietra Cushnie et Ochs Custo Barcelona Cynthia Rowley Cynthia Steffe -
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Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri -
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Edun Elie Tahari Elise Řverland Erin Fetherston -
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Frank Tell -
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Gary Graham Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson -
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Halston Hervé Léger by Max Azria -
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Jason Wu Jen Kao Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Juan Carlos Obando Julian Louie -
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Karen Walker Kimberly Ovitz -
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Lacoste Lela Rose Lyn Devon -
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Malandrino Mandy Coon Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Matthew Ames Max Azria Michael Angel Monique Lhuillier -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nicholas K Nicole Miller -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick -
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Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Preen -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rad Hourani Rag & Bone Rebecca Minkoff Rebecca Taylor Reem Acra Richard Chai Love Rodarte Ruffian -
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Sachin + Babi Stćrk Steven Alan Suno -
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Tess Giberson Thakoon Theyskens' Theory Timo Weiland Tommy Hilfiger Tracy Reese TRIAS -
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United Bamboo -
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Vena Cava Vera Wang Victoria Beckham Vivienne Tam VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Y-3 -
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Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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