Ohne Titel
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 11, 2010
By Meenal Mistry
With each season, the spotlight on Ohne Titel's Alexa Adams and Flora Gill grows more intense. A favorite of the arty-fashion set since its inception three years ago, the label's show has achieved distinct can't-miss status—even on a gorgeously sunny Saturday morning. The hothouse glare has seen hothouse growth. Their Fall collection resulted in a 300 percent jump in sales, and this season they're launching a handbag line that's long been in the works. These girls mean business. And that meant that their Spring inspiration of Japanese woodcut artist Utagawa Kuniyoshi—sparked by a Japan Society exhibit earlier this year—was rendered with a very subtle hand.Adams and Gill worked in a tight palette of black, navy, and white. There were flashes of fluorescent on the fiercely cool sandal-boots and the geometric tubular necklaces that were a collaboration with artist Tauba Auerbach. There was a vague Eastern sensibility in the simple silhouette of the belted pants and the egglike kimono curve in cropped jackets and drapey striped knits. But that merged with the punch of graphic sportiness in color-blocking and a sort of race-car sleekness. Much of the latter came from the neoprene bodysuits tucked into pants and layered under Alaďa-esque pleated knit dresses and skirts. They were such an integral part of the show that it was a disappointment to learn that they're relegated to special orders. Perhaps that will change once retailers have their say, but as it stands, it's the sole miss in an otherwise hit-filled collection.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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ADAM A Détacher Alexander Wang Alexandre Herchcovitch Altuzarra Araks -
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Badgley Mischka Band of Outsiders Barbara Tfank BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bensoni Betsey Johnson -
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Carlos Miele Carolina Herrera Charlotte Ronson Chris Benz Christian Cota Christian Siriano Costello Tagliapietra Cushnie et Ochs Custo Barcelona Cynthia Rowley Cynthia Steffe -
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Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri -
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Edun Elie Tahari Elise Řverland Erin Fetherston -
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Frank Tell -
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Gary Graham Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson -
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Halston Hervé Léger by Max Azria -
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Jason Wu Jen Kao Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Juan Carlos Obando Julian Louie -
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Karen Walker Kimberly Ovitz -
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Lacoste Lela Rose Lyn Devon -
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Malandrino Mandy Coon Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Matthew Ames Max Azria Michael Angel Monique Lhuillier -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nicholas K Nicole Miller -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick -
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Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Preen -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rad Hourani Rag & Bone Rebecca Minkoff Rebecca Taylor Reem Acra Richard Chai Love Rodarte Ruffian -
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Sachin + Babi Stćrk Steven Alan Suno -
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Tess Giberson Thakoon Theyskens' Theory Timo Weiland Tommy Hilfiger Tracy Reese TRIAS -
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United Bamboo -
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Vena Cava Vera Wang Victoria Beckham Vivienne Tam VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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