Betty Jackson
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, September 18, 2010
By Tim Blanks
The ardor Betty Jackson inspires in her customers is well known. You can only imagine the chord struck with those women when, speaking backstage after her show, the designer says something like, "This collection is about a new feeling of liberation; it doesn't matter what shape or size you are." In fact, though, the most generous silhouettes in this show were the trickiest, especially the smock tops with the flaring sleeves. It was when Jackson stuck closest to her inspiration—the so-called Land Army, who were called on to run England while their men went off to war in the forties—that she produced standout outfits. Like the opener, a skirt that flared to mid-calf, paired with a long jacket drawn in tightly at the waist with a skinny belt, both in a tree-bark-patterned jacquard. Or the chic black coat-dress with a fluff of marabou on each shoulder, worn over a long natural-toned skirt and finished off with platforms and socks. Both looks were significantly reflective of a far-off time.Going ba-a-a-ack to the past to find the future—it's already one of the season's big stories. The designer insisted she didn't want a vintage effect, though; for her, the inspiration was less about literal borrowing than capturing a feeling of optimism—the idea of a stylish, gutsy woman who won't let adversity get the better of her. "Someone like Diana Cooper," Jackson suggested. "[She'd] be out in the garden in her dress and jewels, digging up a lettuce for dinner." The jewels in this case—by CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund award winner Alexis Bittar—were glittery, feathery Lucite bracelets, which could probably withstand a dig in God's good earth. The same notion of homespun strength extended into the ragged, textured cotton knits.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Acne ADAM A Détacher Alexander Wang Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice + Olivia Altuzarra Anna Sui Antonio Berardi Araks -
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Badgley Mischka Band of Outsiders Barbara Tfank Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bensoni Betsey Johnson Betty Jackson Bibhu Mohapatra Bill Blass Burberry Prorsum -
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Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant -
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Edun Elie Tahari Elise Řverland Erdem Erin Fetherston -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Frank Tell -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Gary Graham Giles Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star -
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Halston Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Imitation Isaac Mizrahi Issa -
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J. Mendel Jaeger London Jason Wu Jen Kao Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jeremy Scott Jill Stuart Jonathan Saunders Juan Carlos Obando Julian Louie Julien Macdonald -
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Karen Walker Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lela Rose Louise Gray Luca Luca Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nicholas K Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul Smith Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy RAD by Rad Hourani Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Rebecca Minkoff Rebecca Taylor Reed Krakoff Reem Acra Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Sachin + Babi Sass & Bide Sophie Theallet Stćrk Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Temperley London Tess Giberson Thakoon Theyskens' Theory Threeasfour Tibi Timo Weiland Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Tory Burch Tracy Reese TRIAS TSE Twenty8Twelve -
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Vena Cava Vera Wang Victoria Beckham Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen