Akris
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, October 3, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
The minimalism trend has been good for Akris' Albert Kriemler. Everyone's shopping for a pantsuit lately, and smart tailoring is in his family company's DNA. The upshot: More than a few women who might've previously written off the Swiss brand as strictly for uptown types have been turned on by the quality of its fabrics and the sharpness of its cuts. Other Paris collections are moving away from the spare and the streamlined this week, but not Akris.The starting point was the classic button-down shirt. (Funnily enough, there was a similar inspiration at an otherwise very different brand, Viktor & Rolf, a day earlier.) Kriemler opened with a simple, but not boring, asymmetrical shirtdress in crisp white cotton, and riffed on the idea in denim and (surprise!) a lush floral-print organza.
Those bold blooms were a bit too much on a vest and pants, but that was the show's one big misstep. You could picture a lot of the rest stepping off the runway and into real life, and not just the straightforward sea blue pantsuit or the khaki cardigan jacket and matching pants, but also the more adventurous pieces. A short jumpsuit with a bateau neck looked like Kriemler's play for the under-35 set, and he did his own discreet take on Spring's cutout trend, via a V-neck silk shift dress that unzipped at the torso to reveal a triangle of silk mesh. Both of them worked. And both were signs that Daphne Guinness (the brand's ad campaign star and ardent fan) won't be the only in-crowder searching out Akris next season.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Damir Doma Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Edun Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Imitation Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen