Rochas
post a comment ›
PARIS, September 29, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
Remember last season's retro sixties moment at Rochas? Marco Zanini is on a far more idiosyncratic trip for Spring. "It's personal, a melting pot of all I love," he said before the show. The silk florals and matching corsages felt like a callback to his first runway collection for the label a year ago. The scarf prints were homegrown in a different way, based as they were on paintings the designer commissioned by the Swedish artist Slotts Barbro (with titles borrowed from Françoise Sagan novels, a typical Rochas twist).Zanini himself is half Swedish, and this Spring he and his collaborator sister (Christopher and Tammy Kane aren't fashion's only sibling act) paid a trip to Barbro's village. That apparently influenced the show's modest sensibility—cue the head kerchiefs, men's kneesocks, and, more tangentially, the loose, almost awkward fit of a black silk bustier bra (lingerie being a Rochas hallmark then and now) and a silk duchesse crinoline dress.
Indeed, there seemed to be a country mouse naiveté—the Twitter-verse immediately dubbed it "chic hausfrau"—to pieces like a boxy, rolled-sleeve cardigan jacket and its below-the-knee dirndl, or a peplum vest worn with matching pleated, cropped trousers over a puffed-sleeve blouse. But the designer also made sure to include the likes of a smartly cut blazer and wrap-skirted dress, which would be believable on the chicest of city mice.
As for the closing group of bias-cut, washed silk slipdresses, pajama sets, and dressing gowns (right on trend, by the way), it was about as romantic a moment as the Spring season has delivered so far. If other elements of the collection weren't so obviously seductive, they were all close to Zanini's heart, and it's hard not to be enchanted by that kind of go-your-own-way attitude.
/
/
/
COMMENTS
(0) ADD YOURSwelcome !
logout
you must be logged in to leave a comment sign in | join now
see all designers ›
![](https://web.archive.org/web/20101007062115im_/http://www.style.com/images/fashionshows/promorail_flyout_close_btn.gif)
Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
O
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
3.1 Phillip Lim -
A
-
B
-
C
-
D
D&G Damir Doma Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
E
Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
F
Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
G
Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
H
Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
I
Iceberg Imitation Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
J
-
K
Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
L
L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
M
-
N
Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
O
Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
P
Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
R
-
S
Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
T
-
U
Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
V
Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
W
Wayne Wes Gordon Willow Wunderkind -
Y
Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen