Y-3
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 12, 2010
By Tim Blanks
It's unlikely the season will see a more optimistic interpretation of a catwalk offering than Y-3's evocation of Janis Joplin, Elvis Presley, and Jimi Hendrix as the holy trinity of rock style propping up the label's latest collection. At a pinch, the shrunken Napoleonic jacket sported by one male model could be spun as a Hendrix reference (though the waders with which it was paired radically diffused the effect), but otherwise, the somber parade of cropped and chopped clothing brought Edward Scissorhands to mind, with the sky-high hair of the male models as a further spur to that association.Scissors had certainly been at Yohji Yamamoto's signature Edwardian tailoring, slicing away at coats and jackets on the girls, cropping tops on the boys. If a music reference had to be brought into play, it was surely goth, underscored by the witchy hair and toxic lipstick of the female models. They were all wearing black bras, like Sicilian widows, to go with their cutaway tops and flouncy or flowing bottoms. The men, on the other hand, were cursed with electric-shaded velvet corduroy items. There were some appealing pieces—like the man's shirt in cotton ticking with jacket detailing, or the woman's fitted red cardigan that floated away in tails—but Yohji's daughter Limi Feu does hard-rock attitude a lot better than this. Kudos, however, to the person whose decision it was to use Brit rockers the Duke Spirit as a live soundtrack, even if their authentically hard edge cast an unflattering light on the frequently ersatz nature of the clothes.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Acne ADAM A Détacher Alexander Wang Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice + Olivia Altuzarra Anna Sui Antonio Berardi Araks -
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Badgley Mischka Band of Outsiders Barbara Tfank Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bensoni Betsey Johnson Betty Jackson Bibhu Mohapatra Bill Blass -
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Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant -
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Edun Elie Tahari Elise Řverland Erin Fetherston -
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Fashion Fringe Frank Tell -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Gary Graham Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star -
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Halston Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Imitation Isaac Mizrahi -
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J. Mendel Jason Wu Jen Kao Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jeremy Scott Jill Stuart Juan Carlos Obando Julian Louie Julien Macdonald -
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Karen Walker Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lela Rose Louise Gray Luca Luca Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nicholas K Nicole Miller -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy RAD by Rad Hourani Rad Hourani Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Rebecca Minkoff Rebecca Taylor Reed Krakoff Reem Acra Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rodarte Ruffian -
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Sachin + Babi Sass & Bide Sophie Theallet Stćrk Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Temperley London Tess Giberson Thakoon Theyskens' Theory Threeasfour Tibi Timo Weiland Tommy Hilfiger Tory Burch Tracy Reese TRIAS TSE Twenty8Twelve -
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Unique United Bamboo -
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Vena Cava Vera Wang Victoria Beckham Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël -
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Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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