Comme des Garçons
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PARIS, October 2, 2010
By Tim Blanks
Rei Kawakubo was looking to shake things up, so she literally turned clothes upside down in her new collection for Comme des Garçons. The French have an evocative-sounding word for it: bouleversé. And there was plenty of that in coats that trailed sleeves to the ground, or jackets that had clutches of other jackets dangling from their backs. A single jacket would be collaged from a couple more, and dresses were layered for an effect that evoked Kawakubo's other gnomic reference point: multiple personalities.The fact is, as much as she sought to court chaos, there was a spare elegance to many of the designer's constructions, compounded by Julien d'Ys' delicate aerodynamic cloches of feather and net. Take, for instance, the white cotton military coat; or the perfecto-style jacket, also white, which was elongated and expanded so it was almost capelike, then wrapped in black; or the black jacket cut away over a striped cotton nightgown. (Another striped smock bordered on asylum attendant, evoking a sort of bouleversé Gothicism.) A top had one arm ruffled, the other tiered, as couture as Capucci. The finale conjoined pairs of women with a third outfit, conveying the notion of multiple personalities in an obvious way. Why? Wrong question. Why not? Right answer.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Damir Doma Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Imitation Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen