Dries Van Noten
post a comment ›
PARIS, September 29, 2010
By Tim Blanks
Dries Van Noten's new collection had an entirely primal origin: Let there be light. He'd been looking at the work of Jef Verheyen, a Belgian painter who died in 1984 (and is therefore now on the brink of a major revival), and it made him ponder the ways he could transmute Verheyen's efforts to capture light. What the designer came up with was an ombré effect, which produced some striking pieces, especially when it intersected with the collection's other key reference point—Chinese ceramics. Art and ethnology have often been Van Noten's touchstones. Here, they made for a show whose serenity was a downbeat follow-up to the zis! boom! bop! of his sensationally shapely Fall show. Which doesn't mean that the ceramic florals—fading to a vestigial whisper on white silk satin pants—didn't have a haunting allure. Or that the pink-fading-to-blush jacket over a white pencil skirt didn't have a subtle shazam factor.The core of the show, though, remained Van Noten's signature face-off between the dress codes of men and women. Backstage, he claimed the time was right to push the oversize option as a response to the skinny-minnies who've trolled catwalks of late. And, boy, did he ever promote the boyfriend-plus jacket, not to mention the plain cotton shirt, extended to a summery skirtlike proportion. When that piece was paired with an oversize cream tux jacket and a pair of pants coated with iridescent paillettes, it exemplified the easy essence of the collection.
As much as they caught the light he treasured, the paillettes spoke more of the faded glamour that Van Noten favors. In a jacket elaborately embroidered with flowers, he wanted them to feel decadent in the seventies way fashion is partial to at the moment. But they were also the quintessential opposite of the plain white, generously sized cotton pants that were a primary component of the show's opening section. Which is evidence enough that Dries Van Noten effortlessly straddles worlds.
/
/
/
COMMENTS
(0) ADD YOURSwelcome !
logout
you must be logged in to leave a comment sign in | join now
see all designers ›
Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
O
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
3.1 Phillip Lim -
A
-
B
-
C
-
D
D&G Damir Doma Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared˛ Duro Olowu -
E
Edun Elie Tahari Elise Řverland Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
F
Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
G
Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
H
Hakaan Halston Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
I
Iceberg Imitation Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
J
J. Mendel Jaeger London Jason Wu Jen Kao Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jeremy Scott Jill Stuart Jil Sander Jonathan Saunders Juan Carlos Obando Julian Louie Julien Macdonald Just Cavalli -
K
Karen Walker Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
L
L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Gray Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
M
-
N
Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
O
Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
P
Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
R
-
S
Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stćrk Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
T
Temperley London Tess Giberson Thakoon Theyskens' Theory Threeasfour Tibi Timo Weiland Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Tory Burch Tracy Reese TRIAS Trussardi 1911 TSE Twenty8Twelve -
U
Unique United Bamboo -
V
Vena Cava Vera Wang Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
W
Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
Y
Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
ERROR:
