PPQ
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, September 17, 2010
By Tim Blanks
PPQ's appeal, on the evidence of Friday night's crowd, anyway, cuts across a bizarre board, from Brigitte Nielsen to Oliver from the xx. In a way, you can see why: Amy Molyneaux and Percy Parker make clothes for the movies in their minds. Their latest was a cocktail of references. The program notes fancied something exotically Eastern (with a fez the headgear of choice), but a fitted black dress trimmed in multicolored ruffles was more South of the Border. So was a tiered silk pencil skirt in fiery red. PPQ's USP is usually a rock 'n' roll shtick, but this collection felt more grown-up and accomplished, bringing to mind a hard-boiled movie dame, a quintessential someone like Ida Lupino. You could imagine her pairing a scalloped neckline with pedal pushers, maybe even black rah-rah shorts with a cropped frilled jacket, or a sunset orange strapless playsuit with a little peplum for an Acapulco getaway. The fifties bad-girl vibe was counteracted by the sweetness of shorts in a summery blue and white stripe, paired here with a white cotton poet's blouse, as well as by a spaghetti-strapped sundress (after New York, that particular item is shaping up as a Spring 2011 essential). And the colorful print that mixed animals and mosaics in a geometric pattern was pure eighties (especially when paired with gold satin pants). The credits featured a nod to "tanning" (James Read for Fake Bake with skin prep by Adonia). That, as far as anyone can remember, is a fashion show first. See all from PPQ › Timeline
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Acne ADAM A Détacher Alexander Wang Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice + Olivia Altuzarra Anna Sui Antonio Berardi Araks -
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Badgley Mischka Band of Outsiders Barbara Tfank Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bensoni Betsey Johnson Betty Jackson Bibhu Mohapatra Bill Blass -
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Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant -
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Edun Elie Tahari Elise Řverland Erdem Erin Fetherston -
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Fashion Fringe Frank Tell -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Gary Graham Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star -
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Halston Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Imitation Isaac Mizrahi -
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J. Mendel Jason Wu Jen Kao Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jeremy Scott Jill Stuart Juan Carlos Obando Julian Louie Julien Macdonald -
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Karen Walker Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lela Rose Louise Gray Luca Luca Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nicholas K Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul Smith Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy RAD by Rad Hourani Rad Hourani Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Rebecca Minkoff Rebecca Taylor Reed Krakoff Reem Acra Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Sachin + Babi Sass & Bide Sophie Theallet Stćrk Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Temperley London Tess Giberson Thakoon Theyskens' Theory Threeasfour Tibi Timo Weiland Tommy Hilfiger Tory Burch Tracy Reese TRIAS TSE Twenty8Twelve -
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Unique United Bamboo -
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Vena Cava Vera Wang Victoria Beckham Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël -
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Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen