Emporio Armani
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, September 25, 2010
By Tim Blanks
There was a box of chocolates on every seat in the house, and that made a suitable introduction to Fancy Girl, the muse for Giorgio Armani's latest Emporio show. She was most certainly all that and more, in her shiny jacket and leggy tube skirt. This last item, in stretch tulle, was the show's foundation stone. Everything else—the tiered voiles, the little flared skirt with the center zip, the one-shouldered trapeze cocktail dress—sat over it. It was a typical Armani move, to take one item and play it out through the entire collection. In the past, he's attached himself to a particular hat or a pair of pants, among other polarizing flourishes, with all the attendant risks. What if it doesn't work? It's inevitably a win-some-lose-some situation, and that's exactly what happened this time.Where it worked best was with what could be construed as daywear, like the opening jackets, cutaway with a slight sheen. They were made from something called rubberized raffia, which was instantly a valuable reminder that Armani's fabrics are always much more than they seem. Seconds later, we were confronted with jackets and shorts covered with what looked like big, square paillettes. "Thermo-welded leather tiles" is what they actually were.
The shorts were the show's key alternative to the tulle tubes, but eventually even they seemed to surrender to a kind of ruffled nebulousness, which is where the lose-some moment kicked in. Toward the end of a presentation that covered a head-spinning number of bases, there were several indistinctly layered or hard-edged outfits that were probably the wrong kind of fancy for Armani's girl.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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D&G Damir Doma Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Edun Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Hakaan Halston Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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J. Mendel Jaeger London Jason Wu Jen Kao Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jeremy Scott Jill Stuart Jil Sander Jonathan Saunders Juan Carlos Obando Julian Louie Julien Macdonald Just Cavalli -
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Karen Walker Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stærk Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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