MaxMara
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, September 25, 2010
By Tim Blanks
The word minimal is cropping up more and more this season. For MaxMara, it started with something as lean and precise as the new-wave music with which Frederic Sanchez soundtracked the show, and it extended to a (rather too) coolly analytical parade of familiar body-con styles, with the emphasis on a monochrome palette to elongate the silhouette still further. Stretch shorts and tops all in yellow or orange or violet were immediately followed by palazzo pants in the same colors, which, voluminous though they were, were slashed to reveal the limbs below. A nude suede all-in-one and a white second-skin jumpsuit were the most extreme expressions of the collection's obsession with shape, but the way in which a cable-stitched sweater was yanked close to the body with a skinny orange belt also subtly broadcast that silhouette was everything for Spring.It seemed like an oddly ungenerous stance for a house that is famous for its all-styles-served-here essence. The emphasis on the body meant flesh was bared in a backless apron-front dress or a white sheath that reversed to barely there-ness. The bandeau paired with a khaki pencil skirt compounded the overview. Of course, a show lets a label be a little more absolutist than it is back in the showroom, and MaxMara fans may see clues to that in the nautical stripes and the summery trenchcoats that ran the gamut from white leather to polka dots.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Acne ADAM A Détacher Alberta Ferretti Albino Alexander Wang Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice + Olivia Altuzarra Anna Sui Antonio Berardi Antonio Marras Aquilano.Rimondi Araks -
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D&G Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dsquared˛ Duro Olowu -
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Edun Elie Tahari Elise Řverland Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gary Graham Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Halston Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation Isaac Mizrahi Issa -
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J. Mendel Jaeger London Jason Wu Jen Kao Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jeremy Scott Jill Stuart Jil Sander Jonathan Saunders Juan Carlos Obando Julian Louie Julien Macdonald Just Cavalli -
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Karen Walker Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lela Rose Louise Gray Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul Smith Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Shipley & Halmos Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stćrk Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Temperley London Tess Giberson Thakoon Theyskens' Theory Threeasfour Tibi Timo Weiland Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Tory Burch Tracy Reese TRIAS Trussardi 1911 TSE Twenty8Twelve -
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Unique United Bamboo -
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Vena Cava Vera Wang Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël -
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Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen