Prabal Gurung
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NEW YORK, September 11, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
The opening series made you sit up and take notice. A sky blue, poppy, and saffron half-sleeve color-blocked sweater dress had a wow factor, ditto the white scuba stretch mid-calf sheath expertly inset with contrasting arabesques of duchesse silk that appeared a few looks later. His collection is just over a year-and-a-half old, but Prabal Gurung's no novice when it comes to cut. On the contrary, after five years in the atelier at Bill Blass, the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund nominee is a bit of a stickler, obsessing over details like a flesh-colored zipper on a partially sheer evening dress (so it disappears against the skin) and hand-sewn—not glued—interfacing within the lining of a peplum motorcycle jacket (to better keep its shape). It's the kind of perfectionism that's made the designer a favorite with much-photographed celebrities, not to mention First Lady Michelle Obama, for whom every angle counts.There was plenty here to keep the boldfacers coming back for more, from a narrow cocktail dress in sand-colored silk crepe—its draped and tucked bodice like the petals of a rose—to the bright finale gowns that played opaque against sheer in the style of the great Geoffrey Beene. A few of the other evening numbers were weighed down by embellishments like black seam tape fringe or rubberized fils coupés, and looked fussy in comparison to, say, Gurung's sky blue draped halter top and elongated pencil skirt in saffron technical mesh. If he skips the froufrou next time, he could hit it out of the park.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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ADAM A Détacher Alexander Wang Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice + Olivia Altuzarra Anna Sui Araks -
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Badgley Mischka Band of Outsiders Barbara Tfank BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bensoni Betsey Johnson Bibhu Mohapatra Bill Blass -
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Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant -
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Edun Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Erin Fetherston -
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Frank Tell -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Gary Graham Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star -
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Halston Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hervé Léger by Max Azria -
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Imitation Isaac Mizrahi -
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J. Mendel Jason Wu Jen Kao Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jeremy Scott Jill Stuart Juan Carlos Obando Julian Louie -
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Karen Walker Kimberly Ovitz -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lela Rose Luca Luca Lyn Devon -
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Malandrino Mandy Coon Marc by Marc Jacobs Marchesa Marc Jacobs Matthew Ames Max Azria Michael Angel Michael Kors Milly Monique Lhuillier Mulberry -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nicholas K Nicole Miller -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta -
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Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy RAD by Rad Hourani Rad Hourani Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Rebecca Minkoff Rebecca Taylor Reed Krakoff Reem Acra Richard Chai Love Rodarte Ruffian -
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Sachin + Babi Sass & Bide Sophie Theallet Stærk Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Temperley London Tess Giberson Thakoon Theyskens' Theory Threeasfour Tibi Timo Weiland Tommy Hilfiger Tory Burch Tracy Reese TRIAS TSE -
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United Bamboo -
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Vena Cava Vera Wang Victoria Beckham Vivienne Tam VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël -
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Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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