Altuzarra
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NEW YORK, September 11, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
For a newcomer, Joseph Altuzarra is an exacting designer. There was an uncompromising rigor to the 27-year-old's Spring collection of duchesse satin dresses and suits spliced with geometric strips of python and metallic leather, not to mention an impressively high level of workmanship. "I asked myself what makes clothes feel modern," the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund nominee said backstage, explaining that he looked to the Internet for answers, borrowing not only bits from the sixties, but also techno and tribal elements, as well as a hefty helping of French chic. We'd also throw in deconstruction, and subtle nods in the direction of both Tom Ford and Claude Montana.As complicated as that sounds, it all felt of a piece. It helped that Altuzarra worked within a narrowly defined color palette, opening with a series of white looks and closing with navy, connecting the dots in between with hits of neon (for leather belts and bangles) and the aforementioned python. It was cut into squares, triangles, and circles and patchworked onto the fronts of dresses in ways that accentuated the womanly form.
The cone-shaped busts, in particular, will make Altuzarra's dresses difficult for all but the most daring women. But relatively more modest types could find pieces to satisfy: a clingy, densely knit navy tunic and matching flared pants; a nude python jacket with silver accents worn with full white trousers; a body-loving navy duchesse satin coat-dress with epaulets. Relative, here, is definitely the operative word.
This wasn't quite the crowd pleaser that last season was, but there's no denying it was gutsy. Altuzarra's clarity of vision is going to take him a long way.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Badgley Mischka Band of Outsiders Barbara Tfank BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bensoni Betsey Johnson Bibhu Mohapatra Bill Blass -
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Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant -
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Edun Elie Tahari Elise Řverland Erin Fetherston -
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Frank Tell -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Gary Graham Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star -
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Halston Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hervé Léger by Max Azria -
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Imitation Isaac Mizrahi -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lela Rose Luca Luca Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nicholas K Nicole Miller -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta -
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Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy RAD by Rad Hourani Rad Hourani Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Rebecca Minkoff Rebecca Taylor Reed Krakoff Reem Acra Richard Chai Love Rodarte Ruffian -
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Temperley London Tess Giberson Thakoon Theyskens' Theory Threeasfour Tibi Timo Weiland Tommy Hilfiger Tory Burch Tracy Reese TRIAS TSE -
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United Bamboo -
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Vena Cava Vera Wang Victoria Beckham Vivienne Tam VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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- L.A.M.B.
- L'Wren Scott
- Naeem Khan
- Oscar de la Renta
- Ralph Lauren
- Stephen Burrows
- 3.1 Phillip Lim
- Anna Sui
- Bill Blass
- Chado Ralph Rucci
- Douglas Hannant
- Gant
- Helmut Lang
- Jeremy Scott
- Marchesa
- Michael Kors
- Milly
- Nanette Lepore
- Proenza Schouler
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