Osman
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, September 18, 2010
By Meenal Mistry
Clean and easy sportswear grabbed its share of attention at last week's New York collections. Today, up-and-coming Londoner Osman Yousefzada showed his smart and stripped-down take on the subject. "For me, it was all about easy pieces which you just put on, go out, and don't have to think about," Yousefzada said backstage after the show. "But it gives you that drama and that wearability."By that, he means a sleeveless trenchcoat— with nary a buckle or epaulet—cut to the hip in front and long in back, split and curved like insect wings, and paired with tailored dark jeans. Or perhaps an asymmetrical denim sheath dress that's simple but not quite. Yousefzada sharpened his signature knack for giving straightforward-looking clothes a layer of interest and sexual tension by, say, slicing open the back of a shell top, or crafting the silhouette of an elegant dress so it seemed like one panel of it had shifted tectonically and ended up slightly longer than the rest. A more overt expression of the designer's approach was the half-skirt swag of material that he tacked onto the hip. It made for mixed results. What stood out here: the simplest pieces, like a black cotton dress with belled sleeves, a half peplum, and a sliver of inset mesh, or a white dolman-sleeved dress with box pleats that was freshness incarnate. What could have been jettisoned: the neon-ish hues. Yes, a collection this clean and sober needs a pop of something to break it up, but these colors didn't feel like the right answer.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Acne ADAM A Détacher Alexander Wang Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice + Olivia Altuzarra Anna Sui Antonio Berardi Araks -
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Badgley Mischka Band of Outsiders Barbara Tfank Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bensoni Betsey Johnson Betty Jackson Bibhu Mohapatra Bill Blass Burberry Prorsum -
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Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant -
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Edun Elie Tahari Elise Řverland Erdem Erin Fetherston -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Frank Tell -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Gary Graham Giles Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star -
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Halston Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Imitation Isaac Mizrahi Issa -
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J. Mendel Jaeger London Jason Wu Jen Kao Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jeremy Scott Jill Stuart Jonathan Saunders Juan Carlos Obando Julian Louie Julien Macdonald -
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Karen Walker Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lela Rose Louise Gray Luca Luca Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nicholas K Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul Smith Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy RAD by Rad Hourani Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Rebecca Minkoff Rebecca Taylor Reed Krakoff Reem Acra Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Sachin + Babi Sass & Bide Sophie Theallet Stćrk Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Temperley London Tess Giberson Thakoon Theyskens' Theory Threeasfour Tibi Timo Weiland Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Tory Burch Tracy Reese TRIAS TSE Twenty8Twelve -
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Unique United Bamboo -
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Vena Cava Vera Wang Victoria Beckham Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël -
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Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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