Bally
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, September 24, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
Brian Atwood is out at Bally and Graeme Fidler and Michael Herz are in. The designers, who were last at the British heritage label Aquascutum, moved quickly to sharpen this Swiss brand's edges. They went back into the archives to find the square heel shape they used for wood- and metal-soled shoes, and their bags have a geometric precision that's very much in keeping with the Celine-led trend for boxy, clean shapes without much in the way of hardware.The clothing, likewise, had a spare sensibility—precise but still sensual. Streamlined outerwear married natural linen canvas to bonded leather in black or caramel, which was also used for sleek apron-style, to-the-floor evening dresses. The duo's take on the designer sweatshirt, shown in off-white and color-blocked shades of red, yellow, and green, was slightly shrunken, almost waxy. Color also came through in easy, bare cotton day dresses with a tie-dye-style print. This was a small, tightly edited ready-to-wear collection destined only for the company's shops, but it had an of-the-moment sportif minimalism that could make Bally stores busier places next spring.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Damir Doma Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared˛ Duro Olowu -
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Edun Elie Tahari Elise Řverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Imitation Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stćrk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen