Proenza Schouler
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NEW YORK, September 15, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
The Proenza Schouler boys are tired of leggy. For Spring, they went lady, or at least that was the initial impression at today's delightful, inventive show. The first look out was an ivory tweed jacket in the Chanel mold worn with a skirt hand-dyed from lavender silk in the traditional shibori style the duo experimented with for Resort. The models' simple pumps were about as far away as you could get from the hyper-designed platforms and wedges the designers have favored the last couple of seasons."We wanted it to be a little more polished," Jack McCollough said backstage, before Lazaro Hernandez jumped in: "So we took all these feminine codes—the embroideries, the flowers—and mixed them up in our own way. We wanted to do something without any obvious references."
Their way meant a salmon matte crocodile coat with oversize hook-and-eye closure; bold, oversize, arts-and-crafts-y necklaces; and slipdresses flounced with ruffles and worn over retro bras and briefs (side note: It's nice to see that some designers can make pretty, yet practical answers to sheer). It was as over-the-top colorful as it sounds and loaded with sensory details.
By the end, the models weren't ladies anymore. With their loose tank dresses made from guipure lace in hot, sulfur colors and flat sandal-boot hybrids, they were simply cool Proenza Schouler girls. As the ecstatic scene backstage after the show confirmed, McCollough and Hernandez had given everyone a very welcome end-of-week boost.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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ADAM A Détacher Alexander Wang Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice + Olivia Altuzarra Anna Sui Araks -
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Badgley Mischka Band of Outsiders Barbara Tfank BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bensoni Betsey Johnson Betty Jackson Bibhu Mohapatra Bill Blass -
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Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant -
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Edun Elie Tahari Elise Řverland Erin Fetherston -
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Frank Tell -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Gary Graham Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star -
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Halston Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland -
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Imitation Isaac Mizrahi -
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J. Mendel Jason Wu Jen Kao Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jeremy Scott Jill Stuart Juan Carlos Obando Julian Louie -
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Karen Walker Kimberly Ovitz -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lela Rose Louise Gray Luca Luca Lyn Devon -
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Malandrino Mandy Coon Marc by Marc Jacobs Marchesa Marc Jacobs Matthew Ames Max Azria Michael Angel Michael Kors Milly Monique Lhuillier Mulberry -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nicholas K Nicole Miller -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy RAD by Rad Hourani Rad Hourani Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Rebecca Minkoff Rebecca Taylor Reed Krakoff Reem Acra Richard Chai Love Rodarte Ruffian -
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Sachin + Babi Sass & Bide Sophie Theallet Stćrk Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Temperley London Tess Giberson Thakoon Theyskens' Theory Threeasfour Tibi Timo Weiland Tommy Hilfiger Tory Burch Tracy Reese TRIAS TSE Twenty8Twelve -
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Unique United Bamboo -
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Vena Cava Vera Wang Victoria Beckham Vivienne Tam VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël -
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Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
More Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
- Betty Jackson
- Charles Anastase
- Hannah Marshall
- House of Holland
- Louise Gray
- Osman
- PPQ
- Sass & Bide
- Twenty8Twelve
- Unique
- Calvin Klein Collection
- Davidelfin
- Isaac Mizrahi
- J. Mendel
- Jeremy Laing
- L.A.M.B.
- L'Wren Scott
- Naeem Khan
- Oscar de la Renta
- Ralph Lauren
- Stephen Burrows