Tao
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, October 2, 2010
By Meenal Mistry
Backstage after her show, Tao Kurihara offered only a few words in explanation of her collection. "Miss Honey," she said. That might have the ring of a drag queen's adopted mantle, but we doubt that's who the designer was picturing. When pressed about her muse for the season, she seemed to have someone more traditionally elegant and feminine in mind.Of course, in Kurihara's world, imposing a story is not the point. What marched out here was, in fact, a markedly more streamlined version of the designer's surreal and frothy romanticism. For starters, she contained her poufy volumes in a longer and leaner silhouette. The first look—a strapless gown that could have been made of ruched and embroidered bed linens—followed the line of the body more than anything Kurihara has ever done. A few looks later, a black gown smocked on the bias and topped with a knotted and ruffled evening jacket was almost conventionally glamorous. (We are speaking in relative terms here.) Usually Kurihara seems to be designing by loading it on, but here she was often taking away. An entirely sheer black lace dress was a beautiful ghost of a garment. Elsewhere she used smocking to rein shapes in.
There was an overall sense of sophistication, evident in the palette (almost exclusively black and white), in the ladylike elements of polka-dotted silk and lace, and even in Kurihara's take on proper updos and hats. As an added bonus, the new lighter, upgraded collection included the retail-ready individual pieces that have been an integral element within her dreamlike vision but were absent last season.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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D&G Damir Doma Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared˛ Duro Olowu -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Řverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermčs Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Imitation Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stćrk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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