Kai Kühne
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 19, 2009
By Laird Borrelli-Persson
Kai Kühne is a colorful character, but he saw things in black and white (and gray) for Fall. He visualized his models as "survivors with the deepest of pedigree" walking away from their burned palaces with heads held high. This somewhat doom-y plot line was translated into the clothes via tonalities and textiles (one fabric's finish resembling a charred log, for instance).Kühne revisited the dart-slim silhouette introduced for Spring but stretched it to a "more than conservative" mid-calf length, which worked on the runway for the most part, although stores will probably ask him to raise hemlines before the clothes hit the sales floor. The dresses—including several with chic black and white angled stripes—showcased the precise Pythagorean geometry of Kühne's pattern-making, which is truly impressive. Still, it would have been nice to see it applied to more than one shape. Cropped jackets, an oversize coat with asymmetric lapels, and a suit with of-the-moment zipper detailing offered some variety.
Kühne is clearly motivated to pick up the pace of his career. He's got strong new financial backing, Róisín Murphy performed at his after-party, and he showed accessories on the runway for the first time (along with one menswear look—a hint of things to come?). With so many positive things happening, it's difficult to understand why he opted for such a languid parade, instead of an up-tempo one in keeping with his bright trajectory.
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Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan Hutson -
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Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo