Graeme Armour
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 13, 2010
By Meenal Mistry
"Not everyone wants to wear leather, tulle, and knit," said Graeme Armour, explaining the much lighter turn he took for Spring. That sounds like a line straight from a retailer's mouth, and Armour is wisely heeding a buyer's perspective as he focuses the energies of his young label on sales.That's not to say that this three-year Alexander McQueen alum wasn't also focused on ideas in his second New York collection, which, he explained, took its cues from sixties Balenciaga and Courrèges. Armour has long been fascinated by clothes that are a sort of facade, different from front to back, and he explored that theme here. The notion of a butcher's apron was turned into a dress that looked like a midi-length sixties shift coming but revealed a short black skirt and crisscross halter going.
That's the piece for a photo shoot, but in terms of those coveted sales, the front-back concept found more success in a pair of black satin shorts. They appeared plain from the back but in front were covered with flat razored ruffles, helping them pass as a skirt. The proceedings weren't entirely leather-free. Armour's take on motorcycle chic—a cropped suede jacket and a black leather skirt, both paired with crisp white shirts—immediately drew the eye. It would have the same effect on a retailer's rack. Expect to see this designer popping up there by and by.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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ADAM A Détacher Alexander Wang Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice + Olivia Altuzarra Anna Sui Araks -
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Badgley Mischka Band of Outsiders Barbara Tfank BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bensoni Betsey Johnson Betty Jackson Bibhu Mohapatra Bill Blass -
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Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant -
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Edun Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Erin Fetherston -
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Frank Tell -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Gary Graham Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star -
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Halston Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland -
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Imitation Isaac Mizrahi -
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J. Mendel Jason Wu Jen Kao Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jeremy Scott Jill Stuart Juan Carlos Obando Julian Louie -
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Karen Walker Kimberly Ovitz -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lela Rose Louise Gray Luca Luca Lyn Devon -
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Malandrino Mandy Coon Marc by Marc Jacobs Marchesa Marc Jacobs Matthew Ames Max Azria Michael Angel Michael Kors Milly Monique Lhuillier Mulberry -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nicholas K Nicole Miller -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy RAD by Rad Hourani Rad Hourani Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Rebecca Minkoff Rebecca Taylor Reed Krakoff Reem Acra Richard Chai Love Rodarte Ruffian -
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Sachin + Babi Sass & Bide Sophie Theallet Stærk Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Temperley London Tess Giberson Thakoon Theyskens' Theory Threeasfour Tibi Timo Weiland Tommy Hilfiger Tory Burch Tracy Reese TRIAS TSE Twenty8Twelve -
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Unique United Bamboo -
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Vena Cava Vera Wang Victoria Beckham Vivienne Tam VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël -
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Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
More Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
- Betty Jackson
- Charles Anastase
- Hannah Marshall
- House of Holland
- Louise Gray
- Osman
- PPQ
- Sass & Bide
- Twenty8Twelve
- Unique
- Calvin Klein Collection
- Davidelfin
- Isaac Mizrahi
- J. Mendel
- Jeremy Laing
- L.A.M.B.
- L'Wren Scott
- Naeem Khan
- Oscar de la Renta
- Ralph Lauren
- Stephen Burrows
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