Gucci
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MILAN, September 22, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
Anybody who expected a quiet, classic collection of neutrals in the vein of Frida Giannini's Fall show got a jolt when the first model walked out in an orange blazer, violet tube top, green pants, and gold python belt, her hair slicked and her lips a glossy red. Glamour is back at Gucci, and it looked right at home. "I pushed the accelerator on the provocation," the designer said afterward, crediting the late-seventies photographs of Guy Bourdin, David Bailey, and Chris von Wangenheim for the bold color palette. The program notes added Marakkech to her list of inspirations, which inevitably meant that Yves Saint Laurent was in the air as well.Whether it was color-blocking or Berber accents, the fab factor was dialed way, way up. A dip-to-the-navel turquoise, jade, and black jumpsuit was as louche as they come; likewise, the asymmetrical wrapped bodices of vibrant dresses that exposed flashes of bare midriff and rib. Giannini's girls wore a safari jacket in softest suede, a fitted linen riding jacket heavily embroidered and studded around the armholes, or a T-shirt cover-up in openwork crochet—nothing plain Jane about these glamazons. Leathers were densely laced and dotted with gold hardware or fringed to the hilt (a bona fide Spring trend that began at Tom Ford, as you might recall had he not been so stingy with his collection photos). Below the waist at Gucci? Leather drop-crotch harem pants, naturally, and spiky sandals that showed off a red pedicure to match the models' lips.
Evening was similarly split: a trio of genie jumpsuits in what looked like black silk jersey with gold accents on the one hand, and on the other, jewel-tone, vaguely tribal get-your-party-on dresses. These were so ornately embellished with metal, feathers, and beads that they shimmered like candy wrappers. In other words, girls looking to get in on Spring's 1970's action (and there's a lot out there—holla, Marc Jacobs!) will find options to spare from Giannini.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Acne ADAM A Détacher Alberta Ferretti Albino Alexander Wang Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice + Olivia Altuzarra Anna Sui Antonio Berardi Antonio Marras Aquilano.Rimondi Araks -
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D&G Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dsquared˛ Duro Olowu -
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Edun Elie Tahari Elise Řverland Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gary Graham Gianfranco Ferré Giles Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Halston Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation Isaac Mizrahi Issa -
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J. Mendel Jaeger London Jason Wu Jen Kao Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jeremy Scott Jill Stuart Jil Sander Jonathan Saunders Juan Carlos Obando Julian Louie Julien Macdonald Just Cavalli -
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Karen Walker Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lela Rose Louise Gray Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nicholas K Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul Smith Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Shipley & Halmos Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stćrk Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Unique United Bamboo -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël -
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Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen