Threeasfour
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 14, 2010
By Maya Singer
The Threeasfour designers are typically a pretty insular bunch. Adi Gil, Angela Donhauser, and Gabriel Asfour hang out in their studio having conversations about geometry, and then they turn those conversations into clothes of exceptional technical invention and limited commercial viability, which they show, mostly, to their friends. That's been the rule, anyway, a rule Threeasfour gleefully broke last night.The designers summoned their cast to a small park in Chinatown, where an architect pal had constructed a spiral-shaped structure that operated as a screen. An abstract film by Christina Kruse, starring various nineties models, was projected onto it, behind the girls walking today. A new Nico Muhly composition soundtracked the lineup. Along with the expected editors and friends-of-Threeasfour gathered for the presentation, a large crowd of onlookers was milling around, taking in the scene. That was fitting, because Threeasfour seems, this season, to have gotten into the business of accessibility.
Starting with the idea of light and shadow, the designers made their clothes in mostly black and white, with a complementing dapple of silver. Their signature circular seaming—so influential—was again on display, this time working into retail-friendly cotton twill pants with perforated leather insets, and several bathing suits. Used as underpinnings, the latter were made out of a remarkable holographic material. Elsewhere, Threeasfour developed its obsession with circularity: The designers cut simple slipdresses of various lengths with sculptural circular hems, and hand-tacked circular paillettes of kimono fabric into a showpiece gown. Those kimono fabrics showed up fairly frequently as insets, adding a welcome vintage warmth to the collection. Rough leather harnesses, hand-knotted and shaped into vinelike arrangements, contributed another rich texture. This was futurism in conversation with the past—and with the present and, perhaps most impressively, with the public.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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ADAM A Détacher Alexander Wang Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice + Olivia Altuzarra Anna Sui Antonio Berardi Araks -
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Badgley Mischka Band of Outsiders Barbara Tfank Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bensoni Betsey Johnson Betty Jackson Bibhu Mohapatra Bill Blass -
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Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant -
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Edun Elie Tahari Elise Řverland Erin Fetherston -
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Fashion Fringe Frank Tell -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Gary Graham Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star -
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Halston Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland -
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Imitation Isaac Mizrahi -
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J. Mendel Jason Wu Jen Kao Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jeremy Scott Jill Stuart Juan Carlos Obando Julian Louie Julien Macdonald -
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Karen Walker Kimberly Ovitz -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lela Rose Louise Gray Luca Luca Lyn Devon -
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Malandrino Mandy Coon Marc by Marc Jacobs Marchesa Marc Jacobs Mary Katrantzou Matthew Ames Max Azria Michael Angel Michael Kors Michael Van Der Ham Milly Monique Lhuillier Mulberry -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nicholas K Nicole Miller -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy RAD by Rad Hourani Rad Hourani Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Rebecca Minkoff Rebecca Taylor Reed Krakoff Reem Acra Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rodarte Ruffian -
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Sachin + Babi Sass & Bide Sophie Theallet Stćrk Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Temperley London Tess Giberson Thakoon Theyskens' Theory Threeasfour Tibi Timo Weiland Tommy Hilfiger Tory Burch Tracy Reese TRIAS TSE Twenty8Twelve -
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Unique United Bamboo -
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Vena Cava Vera Wang Victoria Beckham Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël -
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Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen