Valentino
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PARIS, October 5, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri have connected with the in crowd. The studded patent kitten heels from their last collection are among this fashion season's It-est shoes—no small feat, considering the kind of girls we're talking about are used to wearing 110-mm stilettos to lunch. Something about the duo's new take on Valentino's signature elegance looks fresh to the under-35 set, and they're buying. In response, perhaps, the designers' focused Spring collection wasn't so much a step forward as it was a refinement of ideas they proposed for Fall.In other words, there were a lot of ruffles, and even more lace—the former, especially, rendered more subtly this season. The show's most memorable dress boasted a floral motif embroidered from gold foil thread, but lace stitched from strips of crinoline on tulle and cut into a coat-dress, skirts, and even a pair of shorts also displayed incredible couturelike workmanship. In step with the season, Piccioli and Chiuri did long-sleeved maxi dresses belted high on the waist, including one in Valentino's signature red.
But even their party girls can't live on cocktails alone, so daywear didn't get short shrift. The season's omnipresent shirtdress came in a deep pink crepe, ruffled skirtsuits were cut in straightforward cotton or denim (yes, you read that right), and a black leather jacket was spliced with raffia. This time, shoes came with a slightly higher heel and gold chain ankle straps, and last season's studs reappeared as trim on day bags.
Valentino, the man himself, seemed pleased as he was escorted backstage afterward. This collection will keep the young Hollywood and Euro-aristo sets in dresses all summer long.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Damir Doma Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared˛ Duro Olowu -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Řverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermčs Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Imitation Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stćrk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen