Steven Alan
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 10, 2010
By Matthew Schneier
Steven Alan is in a voyaging mood. "Mediterranean," he said, remembering a trip to Spain taken with his brother. "Sort of getting out of New York, but having the New York sensibilities in a different place." Departing is apropos for a collection he calls a major departure for his ever-enlarging brand (not to mention that this is the label's first formal presentation, comprising mens and womens clothing, shoes, and accessories, after seasons of viewings by showroom appointment only). "The stores that we sell to have been requesting more of a story," Alan went on. "This feels a lot more like a collection."Alan made his name, and still makes a lot of his bottom line, on one piece of the wardrobe: the men's shirt—that's the opposite of a collection. But he's shrewdly growing into much more than a supplier of standards. For both men's and women's, the offerings here felt breezily casual, more muted and more refined than in the past. Simplicity was a strength. Having mastered the shirt, he's moving on to perfecting the pant—and the gusseted, cinched-waist mountain pant he's offering as an alternative to denim is a solid contender. For the ladies, it's a wide-leg "beach trouser" in cotton or linen. A pleated minidress in indigo cupro? Just toss it in your overnight bag and go. The feeling you took away from the whole was salt-aired and sun-bleached—and that's a sensation that sounds pretty salable, even if you're not going any farther than the next subway stop.
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Spring 2011 Menswear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Acne Adam Kimmel Agnès B. Alexander McQueen Alexis Mabille Ann Demeulemeester -
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Balenciaga Bespoken Billy Reid Bottega Veneta Buckler Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Christophe Lemaire Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Diesel Black Gold Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown Dunhill -
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Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Gianfranco Ferré Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hermès -
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Iceberg Issey Miyake -
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J.Crew Jean Paul Gaultier Jil Sander John Galliano John Varvatos Junya Watanabe -
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Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
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Lacoste Lanvin Loden Dager Louis Vuitton -
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Marni Michael Bastian Michael Kors Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moschino -
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N.Hoolywood Neil Barrett Nicholas K -
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Patrik Ervell Paul Smith Prada Pringle of Scotland -
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Raf Simons Rag & Bone Richard Chai Rick Owens Robert Geller Roberto Cavalli -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Simon Spurr Steven Alan -
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Thom Browne Tim Hamilton Redux Timo Weiland Tommy Hilfiger Trussardi 1911 -
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Umit Benan -
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Versace Viktor & Rolf -
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Walter Van Beirendonck -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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