Z Zegna
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, June 21, 2010
By Tim Blanks
Following the Ermenegildo Zegna show at La Triennale, the curtains parted to reveal greenery, and cloth covering the glass ceiling was pulled back to reveal sky, instantly changing the atmosphere for the Z Zegna half of the presentation. Letting nature in was an apt introduction to a collection that made much of the natural in its color palette (chalk, slate, basalt, terra-cotta) and fabrics (cotton, linen, silk, mohair), and maybe even in its attention to outerwear—you're going to wear a parka outside, aren't you?There's something organic about the way Z Zegna has evolved from a technical experiment into something much more genial and human under the stewardship of Alessandro Sartori. There was still an extraordinary amount of fabric technology in the clothes today (hybridizing different weights and textures of cloth, for instance, or layering super-light fabrics to create a 3-D effect with print), but what was most striking was their folksiness. They all looked well lived in, the jackets slightly roomy, the trousers slim but slouchy. Or maybe it was that terra-cotta with its muddy warmth.
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Spring 2011 Menswear
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Acne Adam Kimmel Agnès B. Alexander McQueen Alexis Mabille Ann Demeulemeester -
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Balenciaga Bottega Veneta Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Christophe Lemaire Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Dior Homme Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Dunhill -
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Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
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Gianfranco Ferré Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hermès -
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Iceberg Issey Miyake -
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Jean Paul Gaultier Jil Sander John Galliano John Varvatos Junya Watanabe -
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Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
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Lanvin Louis Vuitton -
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Marni Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moschino -
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Neil Barrett -
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Paul Smith Prada Pringle of Scotland -
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Raf Simons Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli -
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Salvatore Ferragamo -
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Thom Browne Trussardi 1911 -
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Umit Benan -
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Versace Viktor & Rolf -
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Walter Van Beirendonck -
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Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Z Zegna
More MENSWEAR SPRING 2011
- Acne
- Agnès B.
- Balenciaga
- Dunhill
- Lanvin
- Paul Smith
- Thom Browne
- Ann Demeulemeester
- Dior Homme
- Hermès
- Kenzo
- Miharayasuhiro
- Raf Simons
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