Gianfranco Ferré
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, February 27, 2009
By Nicole Phelps
A question mark lingered over Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi's second Gianfranco Ferré show. The label's parent company, IT Holding SpA, declared bankruptcy earlier this week, and it's not entirely certain that this collection will actually go into production. That's a shame, because the designers have demonstrated not only an appreciation for Ferré's legacy, but also an ability to finesse the trends. They evoked the late "architect of fashion" with a white off-the-shoulder blouse with a very prominent bow, but mostly focused on today's currents, channeling the eighties by way of Queen Elizabeth I. "It is a very positive association for us," said Rimondi of this season's most popular decade to reference. "It's when we were young." As for the ruffs? Simple: "We loved the Cate Blanchett movie."They opened with a pagoda-shouldered coat with seams lined in tiny, burnished gold studs and a stand-up Elizabethan collar. A peak-shouldered jacket, jumpsuit, and dress, all in black, intermingled with the pagodas—but it wasn't just a silhouette story they were telling. Aquilano and Rimondi have an eye for texture. A pair of jackets combined bouclé, cashmere, and alpaca for a genius moiré effect. Sometimes things did get clunky. Tape and paillette embroidery weighed down one lean skirt, and a few bubble dresses nearly suffocated the willowy models. But an evening dress in bottle-green velvet, crepe marocain, and duchesse satin was as chic as anything that's come down the runway this season. Whatever happens to the house of Ferré, these two have a long future ahead of them.
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Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan Hutson -
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Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo