Jean Paul Gaultier
PARIS, June 24, 2010
By Rebecca Voight
Jean Paul Gaultier set his show in a steamy hammam, with bare-chested models for a backdrop. We were in Marrakech, with Yves Saint Laurent and Betty Catroux look-alikes parading down the runway in a sheer djellaba and a black version of YSL's famous lace-up safari tunic, respectively.Gaultier has always been at home in the souk, and ethnic inspirations find their way into his collection almost every season, be it through color, drape, or pattern. For Spring, he's focused on volumes: a long tunic worn with a suit, a patterned jacket with matching shorts, or a sleeveless caftan paired with a shirt and tie.
It was all quite elegant, of course, and also a bit subdued for JPG. Spice came in the form of surprises like Jackson Pollock-style white splatter painting on black trousers, tunics, and matching tote bags, and, at the end, the celestial prints that came alive when seen through 3-D glasses. The bespectacled Saint Laurent would've approved.
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Spring 2011 Menswear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Acne Adam Kimmel Agnès B. Alexander McQueen Alexis Mabille Ann Demeulemeester -
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Balenciaga Bespoken Billy Reid Bottega Veneta Buckler Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Christophe Lemaire Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Diesel Black Gold Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown Dunhill -
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Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Gianfranco Ferré Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hermès -
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Iceberg Issey Miyake -
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Jean Paul Gaultier Jil Sander John Galliano John Varvatos Junya Watanabe -
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Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
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Lacoste Lanvin Loden Dager Louis Vuitton -
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Marni Michael Bastian Michael Kors Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moschino -
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N.Hoolywood Neil Barrett Nicholas K -
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Patrik Ervell Paul Smith Prada Pringle of Scotland -
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Raf Simons Rag & Bone Richard Chai Rick Owens Robert Geller Roberto Cavalli -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Simon Spurr Steven Alan -
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Thom Browne Tim Hamilton Redux Timo Weiland Tommy Hilfiger Trussardi 1911 -
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Umit Benan -
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Versace Viktor & Rolf -
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Walter Van Beirendonck -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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