Hermès
PARIS, January 19, 2008
By Tim Blanks
Well, one thing was immediately obvious. Hermès Man wasn't really feeling button-down shirts anymore. He preferred a cashmere or silk V-neck under his pinstripe blazer, or cabled knit, or croc blouson. Which suggested, in its own subtly streamlined way, that the tradition-loving Hermès customer is in the process of changing (a point echoed by the show's "under-construction" backdrop). He clearly wasn't ready to shed the elegance, however—that much was obvious from his cravats, even if they were riotously colored. Or, for that matter, the luxury (typified by a croc hoodie, for God's sake, never mind the velvet mink coat).But Hermès Man was toying with his classics, happy to combine a brown pinstripe jacket with charcoal pinstripe pants, or pair thick workmanlike cashmere socks with his oxfords. This combination was as incongruous as the bobble hat with the gray flannel suit, and we should probably blame the stylist. But, on the other hand, it was such touches that underscored designer Véronique Nichanian's confident new looseness. She's brokered a successful marriage of casual and luxe—now who's up for a peacoat in navy croc?
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Fall 2008 Menswear
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