DKNY
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, October 8, 2010
By Matthew Schneier
Is Donna Karan foreseeing inclement conditions? Her DKNY collection for Spring was heavy on the bad-weather tech. There were windbreakers and raincoats aplenty, waxed and resin-coated numbers to keep you dry, even blazers with drawstring details and zippered pockets. But dreary this wasn't. The designer dubbed the collection Spring Clean and took inspiration from the streamlined looks of the sixties. (That über-sixties piece, the Harrington jacket, appeared in reversible form.)Karan is an agitator for the buy-now, wear-now ethos routinely ignored by the fashion world, and her first Spring deliveries—which will hit stores in the dead of winter—come in sober, dark blues and blacks, styled buttoned up tight against the cold. Maybe that made the subsequent tiptoe into Spring all the more refreshing: Washed leather jackets, macs, and cotton suiting (in three cuts of varying slimness) arrived in an appealing palette of slates, ice blues, khakis, and tans. And lest the point get lost, a few key pieces were brightened up with shots of Popsicle orange. Here comes the sun, after all.
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Spring 2011 Menswear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Acne Adam Kimmel Agnès B. Alexander McQueen Alexis Mabille Ann Demeulemeester -
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Balenciaga Bespoken Billy Reid Bottega Veneta Buckler Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Christophe Lemaire Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Diesel Black Gold Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared˛ Duckie Brown Dunhill -
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Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Gianfranco Ferré Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hermčs -
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Iceberg Issey Miyake -
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Jean Paul Gaultier Jil Sander John Galliano John Varvatos Junya Watanabe -
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Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
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Lacoste Lanvin Loden Dager Louis Vuitton -
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Marni Michael Bastian Michael Kors Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moschino -
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N.Hoolywood Neil Barrett Nicholas K -
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Patrik Ervell Paul Smith Prada Pringle of Scotland -
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Raf Simons Rag & Bone Richard Chai Rick Owens Robert Geller Roberto Cavalli -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Simon Spurr Steven Alan -
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Thom Browne Tim Hamilton Redux Timo Weiland Tommy Hilfiger Trussardi 1911 -
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Umit Benan -
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Versace Viktor & Rolf -
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Walter Van Beirendonck -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Z Zegna