Giorgio Armani
MILAN, June 22, 2010
By Tim Blanks
The press notes for Giorgio Armani's Spring 2011 collection began with a quote from Ralph Waldo Emerson: "Whoso would be a man must be a nonconformist." But compared to his Emporio show on Sunday, which took some cues from Lady Gaga in an attempt to target an edgier, more urban audience, Armani played things pretty straight with his signature collection. (Even if he did sultry things up by applying a dab of shadow to his models' eyes.)As usual, it was all about the jacket. Low-buttoning, double-breasted ones seemed to be placing a new emphasis on the chest (or at least they did when Evandro Soldati was wearing them). Armani played with buttons (shiny) and lapels (trimmed, or shawl-collared for day). He jokily paired a gingham jacket with pants in a Prince of Wales check, paraded lacquered python for the obligatory glam moment, and matched blue jackets to shirts in the same shade for a surprisingly low-key finale.
The collection was called Sun and the City—mystifying, until the sun actually did break through the sea of concrete jungle tones, in the form of chartreuse belts and suede shoes, and a chrome-yellow leather jacket. Here comes summer.
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Spring 2011 Menswear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Acne Adam Kimmel Agnès B. Alexander McQueen Alexis Mabille Ann Demeulemeester -
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Balenciaga Bespoken Billy Reid Bottega Veneta Buckler Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Christophe Lemaire Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Diesel Black Gold Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared˛ Duckie Brown Dunhill -
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Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Gianfranco Ferré Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hermčs -
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Iceberg Issey Miyake -
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J.Crew Jean Paul Gaultier Jil Sander John Galliano John Varvatos Junya Watanabe -
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Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
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Lacoste Lanvin Loden Dager Louis Vuitton -
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Marni Michael Bastian Michael Kors Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moschino -
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N.Hoolywood Neil Barrett Nicholas K -
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Patrik Ervell Paul Smith Prada Pringle of Scotland -
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Raf Simons Rag & Bone Richard Chai Rick Owens Robert Geller Roberto Cavalli -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Simon Spurr Steven Alan -
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Thom Browne Tim Hamilton Redux Timo Weiland Tommy Hilfiger Trussardi 1911 -
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Umit Benan -
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Versace Viktor & Rolf -
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Walter Van Beirendonck -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Z Zegna