Louis Vuitton
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PARIS, October 6, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
On every guest's seat at Louis Vuitton was a single piece of paper with a quote from a famous Susan Sontag essay: "The relation between boredom and camp taste cannot be overestimated," it said. But if Marc Jacobs' Spring show bordered on camp, boring it wasn't—not with all the desirable party clothes he put on the catwalk. Backstage, with glitter all over his face (residue from a hug with Kristen McMenamy, whose torso was painted with black and white zebra stripes), Jacobs was talking about Art Deco, Art Nouveau, orientalism, and the first designer he ever worked for, Kansai Yamamoto. "Basically, I didn't want anything natural," he said. "I wanted everything overly stylized."There wasn't one dull surface in the show. That goes for the faux marble runway and the gold and black fringed curtains, next to which were perched three giant taxidermic tigers. And it goes for the clothes: cheongsams swishing with fringe; a Lurex halter worn with an LV monogram lace skirt (with fan to match); metallic-shot dresses with sequin sashes from waist to hip; and animal-head sweaters—an homage to Kansai—picked out in sequins. As for the de rigueur bags, they were smaller than last season's Speedys, but hardly understated—especially those patent clutches with "Vuitton" embroidered in rhinestone block letters.
Not unlike his seventies-inflected signature show back in New York more than three weeks ago, this was a flat-out refusal of the minimalism that was all over last season's runways, his own included. (It might also have been a play for the burgeoning Far East market, although it's debatable whether the aspirational Chinese customer wants to look like a "China Girl.") In any case, Jacobs these days does nothing by halves. If it was brazen in its decadence, this show was also a hell of a lot of fun.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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D&G Damir Doma Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared˛ Duro Olowu -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Řverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hanii Y Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermčs Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Imitation Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stćrk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen