Talbot Runhof
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, October 6, 2010
By Meenal Mistry
What would Lucy Ricardo wear to a job interview? That was one of the questions Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof asked themselves while designing this season's collection. (It would have been Lucille Ball's 100th birthday next year.) Their answer: a slim-line midi shift in fine chocolate wool with a skirtlike swag of chiffon fluttering from the hip. Did it make sense? Not quite, but then, logic has never been an absolute fashion essential.The pair's aim seemed to be to inject the parade of fifties- and sixties-inflected elegant workwear, cocktail dresses, and bodysuits-cum-swimwear with some element of Ball's absurdist comedic sensibility. The most overt example was a floral baby doll with a sort of reverse halter. The visual joke was that from the front it read as a strapless dress and floating collar, and from the back as a shirtdress. But otherwise, their Spring muse was mostly left in the wings, with only an embroidery based on TV static and a black and white palette to represent her.
An entire page of the duo's show notes was devoted to an impressive listing of their many stockists in North America (Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue, Holt Renfrew), as well as Europe and Asia. This collection, with lots of pretty, uptown-girl dresses, will thrill those retailers. But whether these clothes needed a turn on the big stage of a Paris runway is another question the designers might want to pose to themselves.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Damir Doma Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared˛ Duro Olowu -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Řverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hanii Y Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermčs Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Imitation Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stćrk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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