Julian Louie
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 10, 2010
By Alison Baenen
It wasn't your usual fashion inspiration: The Hyena & Other Men, a book of photographs by the South African lensman Pieter Hugo that documents the lives of Nigerian street entertainers and their faunal entourage—three hyenas, two pythons, and four monkeys—provided Julian Louie with this season's springboard. Influenced by the way Hugo's human subjects mixed traditional, opulent African garments with found pieces of American athleticwear, Louie played with adornment and collage. An asymmetric silk satin skirt came festooned with tassels like the kind you'd find on a tie-back for a pair of damask curtains, and a crepe de chine shirtdress had a trim of textured haircloth.During the presentation, Louie explained that he wanted the clothes in the collection to be experienced individually, as an assemblage of parts rather than full looks, so the pieces were shown statically, hung from crisscrossing racks. Running in sharp diagonals along the floor—echoing the clean, geometric lines of Louie's separates—were the results of the designer's second collaboration with Aldo. These open-toe wedged ankle boots, made from patchwork suede and contrasting tribal prints in cotton ikat, featured some of the collection's most playful mixing and matching.
Fingers crossed the kicks make it to stores; they looked great with the clothes and called attention to the subtle, crafty details in Louie's beautifully constructed pieces.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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D&G Damir Doma Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared˛ Duro Olowu -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Řverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hanii Y Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermčs Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Imitation Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stćrk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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