Calvin Klein Collection
MILAN, June 19, 2010
By Tim Blanks
Growing up on the coast of northern Italy, Italo Zucchelli identified Calvin Klein as the essence of American sportswear. Since becoming the house designer, he's fused the inherent athleticism of the label with his own instinctive strengths: tailoring and a feel for innovative fabrics. Today's show felt less like a synthesis of those elements and more of a culture clash.The good news included a jacket-pants-and-tee outfit in sand tones that was as elegant as anything Zucchelli has ever designed, a broad-shouldered suit with a gray marbled fleck, and the cloudburst version that closed the show. Other looks, like the shiny, oversize chino shirts, suffered from a slew of strange proportions. Cutoff tops seemed intended to suggest a gridiron player's workout wear but instead called to mind the Hulk's castoffs.
The athletic theme also showed up in vertically and horizontally striped tops and pants that created the illusion of a single piece; they looked like they were waiting to be branded with a product, like a Formula One driver's coveralls. Zucchelli excels at exploring that sort of futuristic, man-as-automaton notion, but there was something literal about this take that felt less sophisticated than usual.
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Spring 2011 Menswear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Acne Adam Kimmel Agnès B. Alexander McQueen Alexis Mabille Ann Demeulemeester -
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Balenciaga Bespoken Billy Reid Bottega Veneta Buckler Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Christophe Lemaire Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Diesel Black Gold Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown Dunhill -
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Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Gianfranco Ferré Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hermès -
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Iceberg Issey Miyake -
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Jean Paul Gaultier Jil Sander John Galliano John Varvatos Junya Watanabe -
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Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
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Lacoste Lanvin Loden Dager Louis Vuitton -
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Marni Michael Bastian Michael Kors Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moschino -
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Patrik Ervell Paul Smith Prada Pringle of Scotland -
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Raf Simons Rag & Bone Richard Chai Rick Owens Robert Geller Roberto Cavalli -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Simon Spurr Steven Alan -
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Thom Browne Tim Hamilton Redux Timo Weiland Tommy Hilfiger Trussardi 1911 -
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Umit Benan -
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Versace Viktor & Rolf -
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Walter Van Beirendonck -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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