Emporio Armani
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, June 20, 2010
By Tim Blanks
If spring sometimes puts Armani in mind of his island retreat in the Mediterranean, this collection stayed squarely in the city, with the key silhouette for the first section being the shorts-over-leggings signature of the urban bike messenger. For the entire first half of the show, in fact, it looked like Spring 2011 was going to be a dark place in the Emporio Armani world. Black leather dominated the collection, and a clip from Lady Gaga's "Alejandro" video that played at the finale was a reminder that Giorgio and Gaga collaborated on her latest. It was presumably the S&M erotica of that new hit that provoked one particularly dark group, with wild-boy models glowering through heavy eye makeup and sporting slave chains, studs, and grommets. This sequence also stood as a master class in the treatment of skins, some perforated till they looked like scales.Finding his way to more familiar territory in the second half, the designer shifted the emphasis to tailoring, in fabrics so light they were almost sheer. Devil or angel? The twin poles of the collection suggested a schism that dramatic. No wonder Gaga saw a kindred spirit.
see all designers ›
Spring 2011 Menswear
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
3.1 Phillip Lim -
A
Acne Adam Kimmel Agnès B. Alexander McQueen Alexis Mabille Ann Demeulemeester -
B
Balenciaga Bespoken Billy Reid Bottega Veneta Buckler Burberry Prorsum -
C
Calvin Klein Collection Christophe Lemaire Comme des Garçons Costume National -
D
D&G Diesel Black Gold Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared˛ Duckie Brown Dunhill -
E
Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
G
Gant by Michael Bastian Gianfranco Ferré Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
H
Haider Ackermann Hermčs -
I
Iceberg Issey Miyake -
J
J.Crew Jean Paul Gaultier Jil Sander John Galliano John Varvatos Junya Watanabe -
K
Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
L
Lacoste Lanvin Loden Dager Louis Vuitton -
M
Marni Michael Bastian Michael Kors Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moschino -
N
N.Hoolywood Neil Barrett Nicholas K -
P
Patrik Ervell Paul Smith Prada Pringle of Scotland -
R
Raf Simons Rag & Bone Richard Chai Rick Owens Robert Geller Roberto Cavalli -
S
Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Simon Spurr Steven Alan -
T
Thom Browne Tim Hamilton Redux Timo Weiland Tommy Hilfiger Trussardi 1911 -
U
Umit Benan -
V
Versace Viktor & Rolf -
W
Walter Van Beirendonck -
Y
Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Z Zegna