Limi Feu
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, September 29, 2010
By Tim Blanks
Black and white, those diametrically opposed shades, are the binary basis of Japan's fashion avant-garde. A close second: man and woman. Put those things together and what leaps into view—at least as far as Limi Feu is concerned—is the increasingly unhallowed institution of marriage. In the name of unhappy brides and grooms the world over, the designer posited today's collection as a reevaluation of that union, to the tune of Billie Holiday's sweet moan. A hint of her real feelings might have been discerned from the peculiar undertow of violence—at least, that's what the droog-y eyelashes, the bowler hats, and the Doc Martens, with their A Clockwork Orange echoes, seemed to be suggesting. Backstage, though, Limi was circumspect, her counsel simply to ditch the ceremony and get married just the way we are, without all the traditional folderol.It was probably telling that the white pieces, the most "bridal," were cut from savagely distressed cotton, although the patched holes and trailing threads created a kind of romantic effect that is probably as frilly as Limi will ever let herself get. But it was to basic black that she remained most irrevocably devoted. Hers is a very quiet evolution, and today's show retained the broad strokes of seasons past in its draped asymmetry and full cropped pants. There was also, however, a dramatic volume in an infanta-style dress that could constitute this designer's idea of eveningwear, as well as a kind of classical body-consciousness in dresses that were drawn to the torso with elastication. And let's not forget the slenderizing sheath for a pregnant model, which might have been Limi's way of saying that with or without marriage, there's always life to look forward to.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Damir Doma Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared˛ Duro Olowu -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Řverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hanii Y Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermčs Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Imitation Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stćrk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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