Prabal Gurung
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NEW YORK, September 11, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
The opening series made you sit up and take notice. A sky blue, poppy, and saffron half-sleeve color-blocked sweater dress had a wow factor, ditto the white scuba stretch mid-calf sheath expertly inset with contrasting arabesques of duchesse silk that appeared a few looks later. His collection is just over a year-and-a-half old, but Prabal Gurung's no novice when it comes to cut. On the contrary, after five years in the atelier at Bill Blass, the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund nominee is a bit of a stickler, obsessing over details like a flesh-colored zipper on a partially sheer evening dress (so it disappears against the skin) and hand-sewn—not glued—interfacing within the lining of a peplum motorcycle jacket (to better keep its shape). It's the kind of perfectionism that's made the designer a favorite with much-photographed celebrities, not to mention First Lady Michelle Obama, for whom every angle counts.There was plenty here to keep the boldfacers coming back for more, from a narrow cocktail dress in sand-colored silk crepe—its draped and tucked bodice like the petals of a rose—to the bright finale gowns that played opaque against sheer in the style of the great Geoffrey Beene. A few of the other evening numbers were weighed down by embellishments like black seam tape fringe or rubberized fils coupés, and looked fussy in comparison to, say, Gurung's sky blue draped halter top and elongated pencil skirt in saffron technical mesh. If he skips the froufrou next time, he could hit it out of the park.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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D&G Damir Doma Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hanii Y Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen