Threeasfour
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 14, 2010
By Maya Singer
The Threeasfour designers are typically a pretty insular bunch. Adi Gil, Angela Donhauser, and Gabriel Asfour hang out in their studio having conversations about geometry, and then they turn those conversations into clothes of exceptional technical invention and limited commercial viability, which they show, mostly, to their friends. That's been the rule, anyway, a rule Threeasfour gleefully broke last night.The designers summoned their cast to a small park in Chinatown, where an architect pal had constructed a spiral-shaped structure that operated as a screen. An abstract film by Christina Kruse, starring various nineties models, was projected onto it, behind the girls walking today. A new Nico Muhly composition soundtracked the lineup. Along with the expected editors and friends-of-Threeasfour gathered for the presentation, a large crowd of onlookers was milling around, taking in the scene. That was fitting, because Threeasfour seems, this season, to have gotten into the business of accessibility.
Starting with the idea of light and shadow, the designers made their clothes in mostly black and white, with a complementing dapple of silver. Their signature circular seaming—so influential—was again on display, this time working into retail-friendly cotton twill pants with perforated leather insets, and several bathing suits. Used as underpinnings, the latter were made out of a remarkable holographic material. Elsewhere, Threeasfour developed its obsession with circularity: The designers cut simple slipdresses of various lengths with sculptural circular hems, and hand-tacked circular paillettes of kimono fabric into a showpiece gown. Those kimono fabrics showed up fairly frequently as insets, adding a welcome vintage warmth to the collection. Rough leather harnesses, hand-knotted and shaped into vinelike arrangements, contributed another rich texture. This was futurism in conversation with the past—and with the present and, perhaps most impressively, with the public.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Damir Doma Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared˛ Duro Olowu -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Řverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hanii Y Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermčs Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Imitation Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stćrk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen