Zero + Maria Cornejo
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 14, 2009
By Meenal Mistry
Maria Cornejo already has Michelle Obama's blessing, of course. And at today's show, there was another ringing endorsement: artist Cindy Sherman sitting unassumingly front-row. The support is testament to the fact that Cornejo, a self-described reformed fashion victim, lays out her task simply: making clothes that are "interesting but make you look good." In other words, real fashion for intelligent women.For Spring, Cornejo divided the collection into four elements (urban white noise, wood, grass, water) to explore the tension between architecture and nature. It's a fitting push-pull topic for someone who approaches design seriously. The question: to work with the body or against it? Cornejo's contemplation began in the stark lines of an off-white linen dress but soon softened into cowling jumpsuits and body-shaping leather. Ultimately, the designer was betting big on nature. "It's the stronger force," she explained backstage. It made for a collection that not only imparted increasingly refined fluidity to her signatures but seemed more about the body than ever, from a fab zippered knit jacket with exposed shoulders to wedge-heeled sandals cut out to expose half the foot. Perhaps due to the debut of swimwear, there was also a new sexiness and more skin, like a bandeau top paired with a leather skirt. So, too, a matte jersey dress with a double belt had a touch of va-va-voom, setting off extra flashes from the photo pit. Well, even the brainiest of gals wants to plain knock 'em dead sometimes. This collection is evidence that Cornejo's evolution is moving ahead at a nice clip.
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Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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D&G Danielle Scutt Daryl K Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sykes -
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Talbot Runhof Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Tim Hamilton Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trussardi 1911 Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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