Haider Ackermann
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, October 4, 2007
By Nicole Phelps
Flowers? You won't find them sprouting on Haider Ackermann's runway. (Well, not unless you look very, very carefully at a metallic black brocade he used for a kimono coat.)The designer—who said he was "searching for a woman far away, someone eccentric, aristocratic, sensual"—opened with a blazer in a shimmery purple-black, worn with a matching scarf-necked blouse and shorts. There were a number of angular, strong-shouldered jackets in the lineup, paired with the harem pants of the moment or, much more provocatively, with sheer gray or taupe fishtail skirts suspended from the shoulders or waist by the narrowest of strings. Linings will be a must if these pieces make it to retail. And the billowing organza caftans that gave his models a bit of trouble on the runway could use a retail tweak, too—several inches off the bottom would do the trick. The dresses with twisted halter necks in liquid jersey were just as sensual, but much more viable.
This was a dark, broodingly sexy collection that was at odds with the season's almost giddy spirits, and though it was not without faults, it was all the more compelling for it.
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Spring 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Danielle Scutt Daryl K Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Heatherette Helmut Lang Hermès -
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Iceberg -
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J. Mendel Jasmine Di Milo Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jens Laugesen Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe Just Cavalli -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kris Van Assche -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Naoki Takizawa Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci Noir -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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