Jason Wu
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NEW YORK, September 10, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
Speaking via phone the day before showing his collection, Jason Wu hinted that "Spring is more dangerous." That was a surprising statement, and perhaps one that shouldn't be taken literally from a designer whose trump card is his retail savvy; on a selling trip to Paris in July, he added 30 new stores to a roster that already boasted 120—not a bad tally at all for a brand that's just four years old. Equally impressive: Today's show was the official launch of his full range of accessories—shoes, bags, and optical.Continuing the push into tailoring that he began for Fall, Wu opened the show with a sleeveless bow-front top tucked into a pair of high-waisted pants. Smartly cut lean trousers made appearances in several different colors and were paired with ladylike blouses or neat striped knits. Jackets, too, were elongated, a couple just substantial enough to function as dresses. His black anorak looked like satin, but was actually techno twill. You could toss it over an evening gown and not worry if you found yourself in a downpour.
The danger, and we're speaking relatively here, came in the form of amped-up colors and mixed prints inspired by the work of the Brazilian artist Beatriz Milhazes, plus a generous helping of sex appeal. The retailers who've gone mad for blouses will have to come up with some solutions for all the see-through ones the designer showed. But all in all, this was a focused collection that will continue to add extra zeroes to Wu's bottom line.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Damir Doma Davidelfin David Koma Dennis Basso Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared˛ Duro Olowu -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Řverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hanii Y Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermčs Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Imitation Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stćrk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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