Ann Demeulemeester
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, September 30, 2010
By Tim Blanks
"Graphic abstraction" was Ann Demeulemeester's catchphrase for Spring. The makeup, the hair, the music contributed to a mood that was like silent-movie expressionism: stark and dark. It inspired a strong show whose single-minded message was rammed home by repetition. Demeulemeester claimed the notion of protection defined the collection. So there were buckled breastplates, quilted obis, and funnel collars rearing up over the face, all of them cocooning the body in defensive ways. At the same time, these structured items loaned a sculptural quality that felt new for Demeulemeester. If in the past she has offered flowing, poetic volumes, this collection found power in restraint: the military precision of a fitted jacket and short skirt, the volume of a parka cooped up under a fencing jacket. The designer hiked a skirt high on one thigh and let the rest of it fall to the floor on the other leg, a perfect paradigm for control and release. Quite how that notion translates to the shop floor is a matter for Demeulemeester and her store buyers, but the feel of this collection was definitely tighter and more contemporary, more sci-fi, less neo-medieval.
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Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Řverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Hanii Y Hannah Marshall Helmut Lang Hermčs Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax Stćrk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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